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57 thoughts on “3D Printer Z-Axis UPGRADE

  1. Impressive improvement. I've had the same issue. I have the rods to replace it, this is giving me the incentive to get around to doing the job. Main deal is I'll have to print up some things to attache the nuts to my existing system.

  2. If you really want to upgrade, add a timing belt and a 2nd lead screw.

    My Velleman has been a rock star ever since!

  3. so you replaced your 8mm lead screw by a better 8mm lead screw? it's just that the original one was bad?

  4. Wow great video I thought I have seen them all but this is the first video on this matter that I have seen! you are a smart young man keep up the great work! I would love to get the file from you and mod my printer you made it this far you might as well reprint the part to the correct size and get rid of the wood! print looks great

  5. Nice replacement video, might I add in the future it's better to compare two prints that are the same in any experiment. Looking forward to seeing more printer improvements.

  6. Hello! Is it possible to correct Z-axis skew (non-perpendicular to Y-axis) with firmware? Can autoleveling to solve this problem?

  7. If I was to replace my threaded m8 rods with these t8 lead screws how do I change the code for the new lead screws as you mentioned at 2:15 minutes?

  8. You might consider taking the bearing off the top of the screw. If the lead screw is not perfectly straight it allows the top to wobble without moving the X axis as much. It's easy to try.

  9. looks like you improved the quality by simply changing the layer height. Before looks like .3mm whilst after is .1mm

  10. This is a pointless upgrade in my opinion. You should add a second screw and drive both with one single belt. That would be much more beneficial than this upgrade. Of course, adding higher quality lead screws, ball bearings and fix the ends would improve even more. Also, it is a VERY bad idea to have a floating, flexible connection to the stepper. The ball bearings of the stepper will wear out and the flexible coupler will cause flexing in the Z. So, even if it costs more and takes more time, it is better spent time and money if you'd do all that instead of this upgrade.

  11. Hello,
    Sorry but: I think you forget something,
    I do not think you can compare two different prints with each other!!! 🙁

    Friendly greetings from The Netherlands

  12. Hi. Nice tweak! I solved your problem regarding wood spacer. See my YouTube video on my channel. I linked your video in mine. My video:

  13. Yes, cause showcasing a printed part with an exaggerated layer height to a different part with a tiny layer height, realllllly shows how well the print turned out…

  14. There is no way to distinguish if it actually made an improvement, you compared 2 parts with absolutely different geometries, not a good baseline..

  15. I definitely think you should close up the rods instead of the printings. thats we were interested to see the difference.

  16. You should upgrade your x and y travel to get rid of the ripple effect which can be seen near your holes. At least tension the belts more!

  17. I had exactly the same symptom, but it has nothing to do with layer height. If you put an m8 thread against your print you'll realise your Z-axis threaded rod isn't running true and it's pulling the X-axis around as it rotates. Cheaper option to fix it is to move the Z motors to the top of the printer and leave the Z screws free at the bottom. Just print some brackets for the motors, swap two wires in the motor cable to make them run in reverse and you're done. Mine cost me $0.50 in filament.

  18. z axis is like column and not reenforced. stop chasing nano meter. not even HAAS with extruder can print better. 3d printing process not allow it

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