6 Of The Most Popular Toilet Flange Repair

on this video here we have a 4 by 3 PVC toilet flange which has been broken due to years of use and the floor possibly be a non leave a level what we’re doing here right now is we’re sticking a rag down into the pipe the waste pipe so that when we start to of chip pieces off of the flange to get it ready to install the new one the pieces of PVC that we break off will not go down into the surf system and we’re just taking the hammer just to get the toilet flange totally loose now we’re going to shove the rag down a little deeper easier to get to the toilet plans and what we’re doing here is we’re going to cut a little slot so I make it easier us to chip the remaining of the toilet flange out of here first when we go to pick we’re not going to cut too deep thought to chip the PVC pieces off the pipe itself we’re going to make a lot and right here we’re using a screwdriver you can use a chisel if you like but in a lot of cases some people we do have screwdrivers that are easier to get to than yell chisel especially especially when you’re in the middle of a job notice how the PVC breaks out easily you think after years of being glued this wouldn’t be possible but it is what we’re doing is when we go to chisel is we’re finding the right at the scene where the fitting of the four by three flame is glued to the pipe now we’re just wedging it right down between the seams and start to pull the flange away from the PVC pipe and when I say four by three PVC toilet plans that means that the this particular foil toilet flange can go inside a quarter inch pipe or on the outside of a three-inch pipe and of course this year in the floor this PVC pipe here is 40 and if you were to find one that is a three-inch pipe and the flange is going to the outside you can use this same procedure but you will have to travel one which likely chip out some of the a cement around it to get access down about three inches and the video I do that you’re seeing to the right side of you that’s the video that is up next if you want to click the next button and you can go to that video which is showing you how to repair a floor up under tallit a rotten floor good floor that’s been damaged years of leaking okay now we’re getting pretty close to removing most of the chips that are on side of the pipe and we’re going to continue to leave the rag down in there until we’re we are done with the process of replacing the flames here we are three by four flush fit taller plans ah so when you do go to replace this flange remember two acts for a flush fit four by three and of course here we’re priming the pipe and the primer is going to start heating the pipe up and cleaning it so that when we do apply the glue and the combination of the primer and glue kind of just helps it adhesive together and fuse together real nice and strong so they have a nice tight seal and it won’t come out on you in most cases when you do a flange like this and you do it down like we’re doing here you might want to leave it leave it and let it let it cure for about two to three hours before you actually set the toilet in place as you can see this flame fit nicely thank you for hello everyone this is a another toilet flange repair similar to one of the other ones I did the PVC flange repair trick but this one is that what makes this different is we’re going to use something to extend our flange deep down into the ground because this pipe has been cut way too low before below the floor so we need to reach that pipe and so we’re going to add a extension you can normally you can go out and buy a flame as it has an extra long extension but they’re really hard to find so i’m going to show you we didn’t make our own extension here with three inch PVC coupling and a little bit of 3-inch pipe and we’re gonna make this reach down in there and make the shaft of the Flan’s much longer so that we don’t have to worry about it this is the saw that i’m using this is a PVC saw it helps make nice straight cuts anyway let’s get started and let’s see what’s going on ok what we’re doing here now is we’re going to cut two notches into the toilet flange right here at the top I want to cut it close enough so if you really don’t cut too deep into the 4-inch pipe that the flange is sitting in and once we cut these two notches out it’ll make it easy for us to take a screwdriver a large screwdriver and just wedge between the two pieces of plastic and wedge them apart and makes what will make this trip taller plants really easy to just pull up out of here even though it’s been glued for some years if this glue can be wedged apart using the process that we’re using right now and once this plan just pulled up you’ll see that this flange actually it was not really down deep into the four inch pipe which I mean it looks bad enough now but it would have been a more serious issue later once this pipe would have just came wrapped right up off the ground and this is why we’re going to use the extension that way to make right here you see me wedging this piece out and obviously you can see by looking at it once this piece is wedged out it makes it easy to make room just wedge the flange right out of here if you look close you can see that the top of the four-inch pipe coming up from the ground it’s just shy a few inches and don’t it’s not a good connection to begin with ya see that came up a little too easy you can see how deep the four inch PVC pipe is down into the ground which is too deep that’s okay because we’re good to go to mix up to work we’re going to add the extension and make the this flange right here obviously this flange is too short to actually go down deep enough into the forage PVC so this is where we’re going to make up our own extension that size of that flange the outside is the size that would fit a three-inch pipe and go inside a four-inch so what I’m going to do it’s gonna work perfect by the way this is a 4 by 3 inch toilet flange meaning that the inch it will go inside a 4 inch or on the outside of a 3 inch and here’s a three-inch piece of pipe that we’re going to use to make our extension with this three-inch pipe and minions coupling and what I’m doing here I’m just gluing the toilet flange on right now and just kind of size it up to cut just a small piece on I mean cut a small piece off so that we can 50 coupling on and it’ll be nice and flush with the flange itself and you see that little not at peace it and it’s sitting right there we’re going to we’re going to file that off and make it smooth as the side of the coupling itself so that go down the pipe without any issues again this is the PVC saw that i’m using of course mine has been used this is what we’re going to use it’s going to get some nice straight cut by the way this clue that i’m using this up hot glue glue oh man this is this is really good glue remember when using this clue work fast because it doesn’t take long for this to set up work fast now that we have coupling on here we have our four by three toilet flange with an extension and there’s that little piece right there that we want to foul off to smooth it so we can go push a trach down into the 4 inch PVC in the ground I found a little bit off we’re gonna file a little bit more off and what I like to do before I uh usually before you know setting at all it is to put my own toilet votes on and I like to actually sometimes I end up using two packages of tallit votes because I like to use the extra boat to bolt it down to the flange so that when you do go set the toilet the closet boats or not the taller folks are not moving on you and making it hard for you to set to call it once you see how I have this set you’ll you’ll like it the way that it’s set up for installing a toilet and of course this is a metal ring um there’s always the debate about using a metal ring as opposed to using a PVC plastic ring a lot of people are issues or that the metal ring will rust and of course that does happen especially when you do have issues with the flange to begin with the PVC flange the issues that I have with putting that down into the ground at times especially at a time like this you don’t have time to try to line it up you have to work fast and with this metal ring I can adjust it once it’s set anyway I want to now call it boats on nice and tight and we bout ready and one thing it is a tight fit that is a tight fit it’s a lot of cases is not going to be that easy just to push it down with your hands you’re going to see that I’m actually going to have to step on us to get it down in there and to make this a little easier I’ll just file the edges off and to like a little bevel yeah I’m working with and of course finish filing down the little knot right there that’s in the way and right here I’m beveling the edge of the pipe so to go down into the floor and CBC a lot easier because it is a tight fit very tight fit and once you see this going you know it’s nice and no i’m not using any primer it’s like i said the pipe that I mean the PVC glue that i am using it’s a very strong so we’re not going to need any of pipe cleaner for this now you see how that went there that was not it was not easy to go with the hand so I did have to use my feet and put my weight into it and now this is what I was talking about the metal flange is easy to adjust and you can set it anywhere you want because it’s movable where the plastic flings you wouldn’t have that opportunity to do that and this is so tight down in there that I have to actually use a screwdriver little just to kind of get it around to Center it and no I didn’t use any anchor boats to anchor it down to the ground because as you can see there was really no where to put it because of the the way that the cement was forming into the hole itself but this will be down nice and tight and this is the end and what i’m doing here is caulking the tallit down and the caulking is actually used more as a seal to keep water from getting up under the toilet itself when there’s any water on the floor mopping etc to keep up germs and stuff like that out and well hide into the crevices of them okay what we have here is an older well it’s a PVC for about three closet flavor and you can see that it was really holding anything and this was making the toilet wobble now this is a difficult spot and it’s going to require a difficult flange well a flange that’s going to make is easier here is a for about three flange with the 8 inch extension that’s more than enough to reach down and grab on to the other parts of the PVC once we primarily with it the other now we have it glued primered in position and you can see down there how far the extension goals and we have a nice solid connection now from here we can go ahead do it off let’s uh as much out of the tanks we can before we take the sponge sponge to the remaining amount of water my life totally jealous it’s been on for a while still pretty stiff that’s okay in the area that we’re working it’s pretty tight sometimes it’s hard to take off and here we’re gonna do rather than just cases way to do it it’s just break the bollock right there right there where the bolts are holding it down you should come right up and then we’ll worry about the boats as you can see this is one of the biggest problems in the am tall it so the floor is starting to deteriorate when these happen so call it kind of gets loose wobbles back and forms a little easier that’s not good for the earth waxwing off the seal so we do here is we’re going to remove this floor and place it with a another floor Live Strong how much better the atomic be nice and stable get the old backswing out of there we’re gonna clean up this spot right here the flange is also broke and we’re going to place the flange also this is an old can’t start plans and cast iron pipe if you’re familiar with the legend token this cast-iron pipes been put in with a lead and oakum the flange but we’re going to use a new technique when we go to install view cast our flame melting blatant open is not required to what for what we’re going to do we’re gonna finish getting the rest is Laura okay now that we’ve got our floor cut out with reciprocating saw now it’s time to start pulling this floor up and just pours floors pretty shot so it’s going to come up in pieces it’s not going to be one flush piece as you can see this is d 2 years of moisture buildup on the floor if given the time I would recommend actually replacing the of floor this because it may not look like it’s damaged pretty bad up underneath but as you can see here bored spread out on the top top part is problem worst part of the floor take the flared up pieces I legal watch okay now you see that we we have the we have it cut we have the new karate little slits in the side and what we’re going to do here is we’re going to take our pry bar or whether we have we’re going to wedge it between the cracks is just kind of pry it loose see how it comes right in half and just going to take that old flange off of there see here old lid and of course this is a bottom view of the floor that we replace it the poly collar that’s what it’s called here where we’re just going to add a few of this is pretty thick floor it’s been repaired through the years I’ve got like two inches of floor so here is a up about a three quarter inch piece of wood and piece of plywood that we’ve cut to fit in the spot here is a repair for it this is a cast iron repair flange you notice the rubber in the middle this is what is going to see ideal type and the flange from any leaks tall tall is flushed these things left to do is on this project we’re going to replace the toilet flange this is what you might see if you were down in the basement now we’re upstairs and this is repair flames that I have here you see the black rubber seal and now you see the bolts that require an allen wrench and once you start squeezing down the bolts the black rubber will start to expand and this will cause the flange to a seal tightly into the old pipe and what we’re doing here is we’re lining the closet bolt holes where the closet bolts are going to be we’re lining them up at each side it should be anywhere from 12 to 13 inches off the floor to the centre of the pipe and this is exactly where the toilet boats are going to go to both the taller down just see what’s trying to square it up and once we have to square to where we want then we’re going to grab our allen wrench set and slowly start tightening the bolts up going back and forth until we get it to where we want it we don’t want to just tighten one bolt straight down we want to just kind of work it around kind of slowly working around so that we will have a even tightness all the way around and you notice I don’t know if you can see it but when we tighten down the bolts the there’s a piece inside that’s steadily coming up and causing the black rubber piece to expand outward and once this is in place you won’t be able to pull this up you can see now we’re trying to pull it up it’s not coming up and it’s sealed tight and now you have your new flange down on the toilet and the next thing we want to do is take our screws and screw it down now if you do have a cement floor where you can’t screw it down this flange is held so tight up against that pipe in some cases it’s not even necessary to screw it down like I’m doing here but this is just an extra precaution and we do have a wooden floor here where the screws can go into well another thing see how this plaster pairs are level you have to worry about your is it’s all it if the tallit needs to be re lifted in the future we gon top the ball is caught up in the plaster Paris stay right in place and we’re going to use some plaster pairs so stick it to the top of your off so that when we sit tall it back the toilet would be nice level steady and straight first we’re going to cut the water to the toilet off and what I like to do is take a plunger and just plunge the remaining water and the tank out and the bone itself now let’s disconnect the supply line to the toilet tank and another thing usually like to put Anya small bowl or make sure did you have a house on a nice big spun excess water that comes it to the sife after ready to go the supply line what we’re gonna do with the Stars uh remove sick this bond closed waters gonna stop right now at all you’ll see here in a little bit SIA reset the toilet don’t worry I’ll now you can see how hair is down there because we’re going to we’re gonna wipe the excess blood wears away anyway but it looks as though someone has tried to make prepare myself taller them please and what I like to do is I like to leave the existing wax on there just count on and just put a whole new wax ring right on top of there just uh it’s always good to have just a squish it now at the top of the plaster Paris I mean it’s not her in the wax just waxing on there get a nice seal on the taller now we have the toilet where we want we just take our hand and start pushing the master pairs start with our sims and start full of light co off taught we’re gonna fill all these voids so we have a nice tight seal and shizz we’re gonna feel all avoid rush fit all the low spots of the floor as we’re doing this yeah what happens that’s when we’re going to mix our plaster Paris and just have place the parrot plaster parents around it spooked we could start level on this floor off soak the sponge real good now I usually carry a plastic container round on my truck purposeful the sponges so this we can get a nice to paris in smooth and clean finish so if you have something like this this is this is five and yes that’s the plaster paris and you can find it in a most hardware stores now when you mix plaster paris all you’re going to use this water and you’re just going to mix it just as if it was Jake’s mix or we stop in the access way you’re just gonna wipe mix in this big if the right then we just consistent continuously rinse the sponge out back into a watery not till we hit to the biggest problem i mixing it not too thick i’m even are like Nixon if it is that in time we will drive mass and you want stops using your left or less water set the stone place before it dry too fast until close to the last swipe and we want to sponge kind of go thing why can’t see right now is film and the ass I am running the water interface hotel now if your clothes can be a toe that’s another place you can run the water and as I’m mixing the plastic parents I just continuously left the water and the face bow our tub just run so that after my mixing I can wash my hands and the excess plastic parents just washed down the drain and just keep the water running so it don’t clog it up just to it dilutes and flushes it all the way and another thing this plaster parish you now remember happening sighs water reasons are everywhere if the tall it needs to be like I’m do any good re lifted in the future yeah I have all the copper is 31 right in place and start placing it was all ha be a problem shims and fill in all the voids all the low spots of the floor and another thing this plaster Paris you won’t have to worry about it sticking to the toilet if the toilet needs to be real ifta din the future the taller to come right up in the plaster pairs to stay right in place so stick it to the toilet won’t be a problem and another thing make sure that you have a nice big sponge set to the side ready to go and what we’re going to do with the spine is we’re gonna soak the sponge water I’m gonna start wiping around the top you’ll see here in a little bit when we reset the toilet and don’t worry about put too much plaster Paris down there because we’re going to we’re gonna wipe the excess plastic bears away anyway now is set up Colin please and we just count squish it down right on top of the plastic Paris in the wax wax ring now we have the toilet where we want we just take our hand and start pushing the plaster parents up into the any void that you might see up on it at all we’re going to fill all these voids so we have a nice tight seal and a nice flush fit and as we’re doing this we have the sponge to decide make sure that we spoke soak the sponge real good the purpose for the sponges so that we can get a nice smooth and clean finish and see what ticks buns this in the water we start flushing the access away and wiping it up in this bond then we just continuously rinse the sponge out back and forth until we get to the point or we’ll get the guitar nice smooth finish now each time we come back with a sponge we start using less and less water until close to the last swipe and we want the sponge kind of dry so we can wipe up the film and the access of the plaster parents around the towel and the taller

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44 thoughts on “6 Of The Most Popular Toilet Flange Repair

  1. great videos Claude thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. really enjoyed watching and learned some skills too.

  2. I don't  think it's a good idea to seal the base of a toilet up like that because it anything ever leaks  it won't be visible until it's  too late, it might take years for a small leak to affect the foundation but for sure it will. And if it's on a floor other than the 1st floor you might fall through while sitting on the pot one of these days when the rotting  wet floor finally gives.. Repairing entire floor will be pretty expensive. Right or not?

  3. Hi, what should I use or do in the future to remove build up of mineral in my toilet sewer line? I just took off my old toilet which clogs constantly for a new one. When I looked at the flange opening on the floor, there was a huge chunk of build up at the floor opening and a skim coat down the pipe. It looked like sand and the surface of the chunk was soft but the one against the pipe was hard. It took me about an hour of scraping with a long pry bar to knock the build up off pipe and the 90 degree bend. I used some ZEP build up remover to help with the process but is there a better way?

  4. I'm totally surprised, you are able to chisel it out. I've seen, when you glue that plastic or ABS, it's forever. It seems to become one! I'm afraid to do, what I see you doing because of that.. Obviously, I'm not a plumber!! LOL

  5. I have watched your excellent videos but have run into a problem using your method. Can you advise? I had to take up the old midfloor (plywood) and put down new hardie backer because of water damage. In the process, I discovered that the flange was too low. There is a lot of vertical play in the assembly (I could lift it up higher manually) but I decided to try to use your method of removing the old flange and putting in a new one after I finish the new hardie backer and new tile. My understanding is that it is best if the lip of the new flange sits on top of the new hardie backer and tile.

    My problem was in removing the old flange. It is inside the 4" pipe. I busted off the old flange's lip with a hammer, but then as I started using a screw driver and hammer, the side of the flange is extremely air tight against the PCV pipe. I used a saw initially and then the screw driver to wedge off a first piece. The PCV pipe portion chipped off instead of just the inside flange residue. So, now I have lost about an inch of PCV pipe across part of the circumference. Additionally, I have kind of stopped because the rest of the circumference seems to be just as challenging. I tested some more areas and it just does not budge.

    Is there an easier way? What is the best way to address the pipe that now has lost a jagged inch or so in places? Just do the extension trick I saw in your video with a 3" inner sleeve?

  6. save a whole lot of trouble and time by using Belzona for this application…1161 or 1212 are perfect products for this job..


  8. Is this method of plaster repair if it could be done with tile ground I suppose how about silicone which do you like see which one you prefer but are they all feasible

  9. Very helpful videos, thanks. I'm just wondering about the last one that appears to be sealing the toilet set to the floor and using plaster. Perhaps I'm too ignorant of the properties of plaster, wood, water and sealing to understand it. I just hope I don't have to do anything like that cuz it looks like a lot of work.
    Thanks again

  10. I appreciate you making the videos but I have trouble understanding what is going on sometimes and don't enjoy watching because the quality is so poor.

  11. I had some guys install tile in my bathroom. I went to install the toilet after they were done, (they were not very skilled), and I noticed the flange was not sitting on something solid. It looks like the subfloor beneath the tile, beneath the hardibacker, is rotted. Do I need to rip out the tile and hardibacker and replace the subfloor? How important is the integrity of the subfloor?

  12. I have to install a toilet in a small powder room. The one-piece toilet is probably close to 100 pounds, and I certainly could not lift it and center it over the bolts. The bathroom is too narrow for two men to get on its sides. I wonder how a pro would do this.

  13. Two videos playing at once is not a cool feature. Very confusing and caused me to stop watching. You might want to consider discontinuing this feature in the future. Otherwise you do good work man.

  14. Thanks for sharing your expertise! It's not like you can call up a plumber when you're living out in the wilds of Alaska. Watching your videos gives me the confidence to fix my stinky little problem all by myself! You Rock!!

  15. What is you preferences for leveling flange with floor after removing concrete floor and installing wood sub floor (which is apparently lower)

  16. Isn't the toilet flange supposed to be secured to the floor? Maybe I'm wrong but looks to me like the hole in the floor is bigger than the flange so that the flange is not screwed to the floor.

  17. Lot of great information here. I only wish that the audio was better. I couldn't even understand the last segment of the video. Still could tell what was going on but not the why.

  18. When I remodeled my house and put it up for sale, My Realtor told me not to caulk the toilets because then you would not see if there are any leaks? Is there a right or wrong?

  19. Certainly it looks expensive but made to last and That Flange should be stainless steel and not Painted to last indefinitely Just Saying

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