[These are Google translations.]
The 1985 model NSR500 that won the double title that I like best,
It is remodeled based on Tamiya 1986 model NSR500. (* The 1985 model NSR500 has not been released.) I will divert parts from this 1983 NS500. Building the ’85 NSR500 Make from steering damper. This is a kit part. Made from metal pipes and insect pins. It looks like this. Parts are classified into postcard cases when cut out from the runner. Temporarily assemble the basics, check the style, and make a strategy on where and how to fix it. For the frame parts, fill the holes on the back with epoxy putty. The mainframe is slanted at the top of the 86 model NSR. The 85’s NSR I’m trying to make this time is a normal square shape, so after sticking a plastic stick … In the meantime, add epoxy putty and shape. The streak that has disappeared is re-carved. I will keep track of the welding while looking at the 1985 model data. As you can see, the cross section of the main frame is now square. The swing arm parts also filled the holes. Rear brake caliper on swingarm.
The form differs between the 86 and 85 models. Cut it … Cut and transplant from the same shape 1983 NSR500. The swing arm also has characteristic welding marks, so it will be reproduced. Although it is a link of rear suspension, the kit is dangling without connecting to anywhere, so the bracket is prepared with a nickel silver plate. Pass the square bars between the frames and connect them there. Like this. Production of exterior parts Cowl. There is a hole not found in the 85 model. Filled with epoxy putty. If you look at the data, you can see that the length of the trailing end is not enough. Make it longer with a plastic board. In order to have strength, it is reinforced with a nickel silver plate on the back side. In order to prevent cracking, the seam is not putty, but is pressed with a melted plastic rod to erase it. This opening was too large below, so I buried it with putty and shaped the duct. Since the upper and lower parting lines of the cowl are a little low, fill in the line carving with a plastic stick. The line carving has disappeared. I re-carved the line carving on about 2mm.
(Be careful because the height of the cowl parting line is different on the left and right.) Same for the other side (right side). Filled the lower part of the opening and shaped it. Cowl chin. There are some variations in the hole shape depending on the race,
Change it to my favorite version. The upper part of the mouth(?) is also added by looking at the data. Each like this. Parts of tank & seat cowl. It looks like the seams are not good. As the gap is transparent like this, it is reinforced. Melt the thin plastic bar to soften it and press it to fill the gap. Re-open the air inlet neatly. Fill the tank with plastic sticks where the alignment is conspicuous. The tank shape is different between the 1986 and 1985 models, so correct it.
Use poly putty. While using a plastic plate in some places It’s pretty close to the 85’s. Attach a cap etc. and the tank is now OK. Undercarriage production 86 model kit parts. I separated the brake caliper. Work with plastic board. Make a mold to make the bottom case cover. Even though I put the poly putty put in the mold and copy it … Form the cover with epoxy putty. This is a hole in the lid of the tapper with a punching mesh.
It is a self-made vacuum former. Place the mold you made earlier and press the heated plastic plate. When vacuuming from the container below, like this. Cut out with a cutter and finish the cover. While using aluminum pipes and metal wires, Attach the prepared cover and the front fork is OK. Newly built torque rod at the rear. Made from a nickel silver board. The wheel uses a star-shaped Comstar from the 1983 kit. Of course, the front is the same. Check the proportions by temporarily assembling them. Engine production Basically, use the 86 model kit as it is. A little work with a plastic board. I painted. Carburetor air intake. Press it against the epoxy putty to remove the mold. Vaseline is applied before pressing. Set the brass mesh … If you push it in with parts, it looks like this. Cut over parts. Like this. Assemble to carburetor. Plug cap and cord are blue. The coil is slightly more detailed. A spring was used to reproduce the bellows of the cord connection. In this way, the gap of the spring is filled with the surfacer. Paint the frame to mount the engine. The engine was mounted on the frame, and the coil and plug cord were attached. Add fine wiring. Paint around the rear and unite with the frame. I noticed that the shape on the right side of the engine was different, so I fixed it with epoxy putty. The details of the radiator look like this. Production around the handle Using aluminum pipes … I made a throttle cable tensioner. Incorporate this way. Using a sponge file … It’s not a French crueler donut… this. Painted the bottom case of the front fork.
Match the color to the data. A mirror finish is wrapped around the inner tube. The fork has been incorporated into the frame. I also installed the steering damper that I prepared first. Paint around the front such as brake discs … Combine! The steering damper is movable. Creating a chamber The 86 model NSR500 kit chambers are arranged.
All shapes are different from the 85 model. I will make the finished body upside down. I make it with this epoxy putty.
The most important thing is to look at the material photos well enough to memorize the shape before making it.. The thickness is about 10mm in diameter at the thickest point. The one on the top left is powder. Look closely at the material … Make while checking according to the body. I also use plastic sticks. The actual NSR500 is also a chamber made by trial and error by hand.
I will try and error with putty while thinking about such a thing. I wanted to recreate a bit of artistic handling. The bracket is also made of a nickel silver plate at the same time. It took some time, but I was able to get the shape. Out of order. at first second. Third. fourth. Next is the details of the chamber surface.
Look carefully at the material and mark it with a pen. I used a plastic plate and a plastic stick. Like this. Silencers are made from brass pipes. The connection is made from a plastic pipe. Make a lot and choose 4 good ones. The end of the silencer is also a brass pipe. Silencer is ready. There is a sense of precision, cool! I installed it. Connection between silencer and chamber. Made with springs, nickel silver plate, brass wire. If I remove the spring, the silencer can be removed. Now I will start painting the chamber, but here the first part is over. Please enjoy the sequel.