How do you build a stud wall??? – Bathroom Rebuild | P1V7 | ShortWorx


This time I’ll be starting the bathroom rebuild.
Building a new stud wall, fixing the floor and drywalling. These braces will provide a fixing point for
the new stud wall. The laser level will help me find the new
wall position. Next, I cut the top plate to length… …and secure it to the bracing. Time for the studs… I’m marking the crown (the natural bow in
the wood). There’s a joist directly below so I don’t
think a bottom plate is necessary under this stud. Now I can fix the bottom plate directly into
that flooring joist. And install the rest of the studs… The next one will be a king stud… …so I’m marking out for the doorway. Then transferring the marks from the bottom
plate to the top plate. The laser distance measurer provides an accurate
reading of the distance between the 2 plates. I’m cutting the studs slightly longer so they
stay in position whilst I add screws. And now for the intermediate studs, ensuring
all the crowns are facing the same way. Next I can cut out the bottom plate in the
door openning. Then add the jack stud. That gives me somewhere to attach the header
plate… and finally the cripple studs. This bracing stiffens up the studs and binds
them together. Some masonary screws provide additional stregth. I’ve cut some new floor boards to size to
replace any old boards that were rotten. Next i’m securing battens to the wall, ready
for new drywall. I’m drilling a 6mm hole… …adding a wall plug… …and securing with a screw. And then just repeat about 100 times… I’m spacing them 400mm apart… …and checking for level as I go. Plastic shims help to keep the battens level. Before boarding the celing I’m reinstalling
the old ceiling insulation. I’m filling in the old gaps…before overboarding
the entire ceiling. I’ve pre marked the locations of the ceiling
joist so I know exactly where to add screws. This is moisture resistant board which should
prevent mold… I’ve scored and snapped the boards on one
side so I can fold them in half. Making them easier to handle. Using scraps of wood as a lever help to butt
the boards up to the ceiling It’s easier for me to board over the window
and cut it out later. This is standard drywall on this wall and
it won’t not be tiled. I’ve attached a temporary batten to take the
weight of the board whilst I screw it in place. The router with a flush trim bit makes a perfect
cut around the window but creates a lot of dust. I’m adding mineral wool insulation for added
sound proofing. It’s cuts really easily with a snap off knife. and finishing off the wall with more drywall. Finally I’m fitting the doorframe… So the cost so far Building Materials were 20 Timber was 60 Plumbing was 105 Professional Plumber was 25 Plasterboarding was 130 and a proffesional plasterer was 310 So the cost of this stage of the project is
650 and the cost so far is 124,030

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