How to Rebuild Crank Brothers Pedals


In this video, we’ll show you how to rebuild
Crank Brothers pedals using a Crank Brothers Refresh Kit. Calvin Jones here, Park Tool Company. Before we get into the pedals, let’s talk
about where the drivetrain really begins: It’s at the shoe. The shoe is where your body meets the bike. Now, your Park Tool socks, we can exclude them, but the shoe and the pedal
should be considered a unit. We could do a whole video on this,
we won’t get into that, but at least make sure those cleat bolts are tight. Good! Now, on to the pedals. Pedal service should be considered a routine
maintenance procedure. The first thing to check is the tightness
of the fasteners on the pedal body. Also check the bearings.
Begin by giving them a spin. They should feel relatively smooth. Finally, check the play between the pedal
body and axle. A little play is common, but a pedal with
too much play should be rebuilt. Typical tools for Crank Brothers service include: Appropriate wrenches including a socket tool, hex wrenches, and Torx-compatible wrenches, a flat head screwdriver,
a vise and axle vise insert, a hammer,
a punch, sockets to use as bearing drivers, a seal pick,
threadlocker, grease and rags,
and a Crank Brothers Refresh Kit. There are a few different pedal designs from
Crank Brothers, but the service aspects are fairly similar. The company provides what they call a Pedal
Refresh Kit with new bearings, bushings, and seals. Install the pedal in an axle vise. If you don’t have a vise, you can leave it
on the crank. Remove the dust cap counterclockwise. Under this cap is a nylock nut. Use a socket tool to remove it – also counterclockwise. Pull the pedal body from the pedal axle. Remove the seal on the axle
and wipe the axle clean. After cleaning both axles you can see that
one axle is badly scored and rough: It may be worth servicing, but know that the
pedal will never feel smooth. The other axle is an example of normal wear. On the pedal body, the outboard bearing needs
to come out. It is a slip fit, but sometimes needs some
pushing from the inside. Use a long punch and tap both sides and it
should come out willingly. Inboard is another bearing. Crank Brothers provides a
simple driver with the Refresh Kit specifically sized for the bore of the pedal. You will need to elevate the pedal on something
that will support the pedal body while allowing the bearing to exit. Depending on the model of pedal, you may have
to pull apart the pedal body to get access to the seals inboard of the bearings. Remove the old seal using a seal pick. Wipe clean and install the new seals. Grease inside each seal and reassemble the
pedal body. The pedal body bolts are a good place to use
a threadlocker such as Park Tool TLR-1. Crank Brothers’ recommended torque value for
these pedal body bolts is 2.5Nm, which is just snug. From the rebuild kit, install the appropriate
bushings into the pedal body. Lead with the tapered end. You’ll need to find something to use as a
guide such as an 8mm hex socket. Tap the bushing in straight. Drive it home by using an object that closely
matches the outside diameter of the bushing, such as a 10mm socket. Install the new seal on the axle. Grease the axle… and insert it into the pedal body. From the rebuild kit, install a new cartridge
bearing. Reinstall the pedal onto an axle vise, or use a hex wrench in the back
of the axle to hold it secure. Reinstall the nylock nut and tighten it until
you feel it bottom out at approximately 4Nm. Install the new dust cap from the new rebuild kit. Repeat the process on the other pedal. Thanks for watching this repair help video
from Park Tool. We’re constantly adding videos and articles
here on YouTube as well as our website at parktool.com Please give this video a thumbs up if it helped you out and of course, subscribe for
the latest content from Park Tool.

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16 thoughts on “How to Rebuild Crank Brothers Pedals

  1. Also if your old flathead dust caps are still okay, I recommend you use them again as the hex ones strip very easy because they are very shallow
    I speak from past experience

  2. hey there park tool buddies. i have a question which has nothing to do with this but ill ask here since you might not notice it on the video that it belongs.

    so i had to true my KCNC kasditor rotor, i think i did it right, but it uses an alloy spider, and now it crackles a bit when i touch the rotor even with my fingers my guess is that the crackle comes from the spider, so my question is if theres any chance to repair that? like tightening the spider or something or is it a sign that the rotor willl soon die?

    hoping for an answer, ty very much

  3. In regards to the rusted axle of the one pedal, I've found either a soak in distilled vinegar followed by scrubbing with a wire brush or a light rub with fine 300 or 400 grit sand paper to remove the rust then a quick metal polish works very well.

  4. The needle bearing is replaced with plastic bushing. In cese of Eggbeater 3 model this process effectively turns it into Eggbeater 2 model. This is the only thing I find odd in this refresh kit.
    The process is really user-friendly and all is good thought through by Crankbrothers. But this little momemnt with neddle bearing being replaced with plastic bushing is a bit funny.

  5. Hello Park Tool guys ,

    There was a needle bearing at the very beginning , but after removed it’s replaced by a bushing only . Just wonder why don’t Crank Bros provide another needle bearing in the refresh kit , or why don’t you guys use another needle bearing instead of that bushing ? Is there any difference between needle bearing and that bushing ?

    And if possible , would you mind let me know the diameter of the bearing removal tool please ?

    Thank you so much .

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