Kenmore / Whirlpool Dryer Not Heating – Easy Troubleshoot and Repair.

Hey casket here. Check this out. I’m down in the laundry room again, so you can guess there’s an issue It’s not with the washer. It’s with the dryer today. I’d rather be out smoking a brisket ain’t happenin today today We’re gonna fix the dryer it quit heating I’m gonna show you how to safely troubleshoot it and repair it super easy. You can do it. Check this out This is a Kenmore Elite It’s a heavy-duty King-sized capacity. Here’s the identification tag for this particular unit showing the model number So for things that go wrong It could be your timer, which is the mechanism behind this knob That’s one It could be the heating element It could be the thermostat Or it could be the the Thermal fuse which Is probably going to be the problem today? so one of those four main issues on my particular model, I have access to the blower motor and The thermostat in the heating element through this front panel And I’ll show you how to remove that. It’s very simple. If you don’t know you’ll bend the clips Super simple. I’ll show you how to do that. Watch this Before you start this project always Unplug it Unplug it unplug it, please if I didn’t mention it before Unplug it There’s actually four clips. There’s one on the bottom on both sides And there’s one here and one here if you look in between the slot You’ll see the clip and you simply put the screwdriver in there like that Put a little pressure on it. You’ll pop it out just like that Then we’ll come over here and we’ll do the same to this one And if you pull it out forward and then lift it up you can remove the Panel out of the way And then remove the two clips that are on the bottom so you don’t lose them like that And we’ll put those out of the way as well Okay, let’s take a look inside this right here is the blower housing There’s a fan and here that spins. This is where the the motor is behind this part here and this is the actual the lint screen is right down here my particular model and If you come over here Around the corner. I’m going to show you the components as I showed you the timer up above that could be the bad component this right here is the thermostat the thermostat has four wires connected to it and Then if we look here This is the Heating element and you look and see the actual coils, so this is the heating element Back here is one of the thermal cutoff switches Thermal fuse and there’s another back here Which is also a thermal fuse One of these two is bad We’re gonna figure out which one it is And we’re gonna replace them both because we had to buy the kit and I’ll show you about that in a minute So we’re gonna use a quarter inch socket and we’re gonna remove the first one has to Screws or bolts the second one has one and it has a little clip that fits up into the manifold So we’re gonna pull the wires off and remove those and we’ll check them Start by the first one There’s the first one let’s get the other one out See passing is removed and this one flips up and out like that Okay, let’s talk parts there’s actually two That are connected in series These parts you used to be able to buy them separately If one went bad, you could buy it separately. Now they have changed it. You have to buy them in a kit So for clarification on these two components here the one on the right this one here is actually a Thermal cutoff fuse It has a high limit of 360 degree Fahrenheit the other one here with the red label that one there is actually a high limit thermostat with a threshold of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, so The part number for the kit now Is two seven nine seven six nine the description is cutoff tml cutoff thermal the Kit was $40 actually $45 with tax come to forty seven 71 Okay, so I’ve removed the thermocouples. These are mine These are the two new ones that I’m gonna reinstall So you’ll need a multimeter. I’ve got about six of these things You can use any of them. This is an old one that belonged to my grandfather Still works great and I still use it from time to time This is a Harbor Freight special for five bucks These things work great I’ve never had any problems with them. This is a little more expensive Harbor Freight specially out This one has a audible alarm on it For testing continuity and I’ll show you what that’s all about. So, let’s check these four components One of these four components are bad that I can guarantee you. It’s not going to be the new ones. So let’s check it out Okay, so set your own meter to the ohms selection this particular one on mine has an audible alarm and We’ll test it Can you hear it it is hard to hear So let’s check the components so these are the new ones That’s fine That one’s good Okay, this is mine it was in the dryer and you can hear it’s got continuity There it is, that one’s bad Nothing Zilch Zippo, that’s the bad component. That’s the one that was installed in the rear. We’re gonna put both of the new ones in But that’s the bad one Also, keep in mind We’re gonna have to troubleshoot and find out why this blue You might have in your dryer. I know Mine is good because I just cleaned it out about six months ago But you want to take the fan housing off You want to take your hose off your dryer hose, which you should have a metal one and not a plastic The plastic ones catch fire and I don’t think they even sell them anymore. So if you have an old dryer vent hose, that’s plastic immediately get rid of it and go buy a Metal one like I have here These trip because they overheated try to troubleshoot and find out why your dryer While your thermal cutoff switch tripped and you want to get in there and make sure there’s no lint buildup No dryer sheets plugged up in there, which I’ve had that happen in the past so you want to make sure that you troubleshoot and find out why this thing blew and Because that’s a safety issue and that will be a house fire waiting to happen. If you don’t find out why this trip Okay, so we just finished testing the thermal cutoff switch and we discovered that the rear one was bad before we do that and before you remove them, I removed him because I Tested them before I took him out. And I knew the back one was bad But before you do that, you also want to test the heating element So you’ve got the heating element the thermostat and you’ve got the two thermal cutoff switches that could be bad So let’s check the newah t of the heating element and to do that. You want to make sure that you remove one of the wires One of the wires Otherwise, you won’t get an accurate reading checking the continuity So now we want to check the continuity and make sure that the there’s not an open circuit on this heating element So as you can see, I’ve got one probe on one of the heating element contacts You hear that? Okay, here’s the test let’s put it on the bottom one Yes, okay, so that’s telling me that there’s a continuity in the heating element and The heating element is a closed circuit. It’s not defective And so the heating element is not the problem here Let’s look at the thermostat so you can see on the thermostat and the thermostat is the one with the four wires connected to it I’ve got one of my multi multi meter leads on the outside Contact I’m going to come over here and I should get on audible alarm and an indication that there’s continuity And there is you hear that So the thermostat is not defective the thermostat is good Now I should mention there’s actually one more Component that could be bad Let me see if I can get my camera back here to show you right next to the thermostat here is one more thermal cutoff that White piece right there with the two blue wires coming out of it And it’s back there. So tightly that I’m gonna check it with my multimeter But I can’t do it on camera because it’s just too tight to get in there. So There’s an actual Thermal cutoff which is three of them Not too and it’s that one right back there next to the thermostat They’re just nice and snug don’t over-tighten it the rear on his in and let’s connect the wires Okay, now we’ll install the front one All right, so I got the screws started in the first one and the front one here It has to actually fasteners where the rear one only has investment Okay, that’s pretty snug right Install let’s connect the wires Let’s test it 240 volts Make sure you unplug this Before you work on the dryer, we don’t need to be checking for electricity with these multimeters We’re checking for continuity only not electricity. We know we got power and You do not want to get zapped with 240 volts. So unplug Always when you’re working on the appliance so let’s Adjust this here the door is closed Okay, it’s running Let’s advance this to activate the heating element Okay, let’s go down below and see if we get And there she is Eating once again ready to start drying mountains Beautiful sight Okay Problem solved Okay, let me show you a trick now They will tell you these are not resettable But they actually are resettable and I’m going to show you how to do it Inside of this casing is a round disc When that disc reaches a certain temperature it becomes warped and it pops out of place breaking the two contacts here, so it becomes an open circuit, but you can actually And I’ll show you how to do it. You can actually reset this breaker or this fuse and Get it functioning again. Now. Let’s test it. First of all You can see this was our bad fuse we have nothing here Do you hear that? Okay, you can see that the fuses has an open circuit Okay, take the fuse and strike it firmly on a hard surface you might have to do it two to three times Let’s do it again, there it is. Do you see that? This bad thermal fuse has just been reset So If you’re unable to get to a part store, or you can’t get a hold of the part You can reset this fuse and now, you know Okay, so let’s put the access panel back on and we start by taking the clips and you’ll see a little slot right here and These clips one fits right in there like that The other one will fit in here like that On the cover You’ll see a couple of holes And you’re gonna put the clips through those holes just like that and all you have to do is push it back into place So we’re all done here. The repair was successful and I hope this video was helpful We need to get back out and fire up the smoker and get some ribs gone time for dinner So if this video was helpful to you, please hit the like button subscribe to my channel and always leave comments below I’d love to hear what you have to say

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100 thoughts on “Kenmore / Whirlpool Dryer Not Heating – Easy Troubleshoot and Repair.

  1. The beat video by far and i was just about to give up and pay someone. Thank you very helpful information.

  2. The thermostat with 4 wires have 2 severely heated wires that should be changed out with new terminals and possibly a new thermostat. This could cause a high amp draw that caused your fuse failure.(2:47 of your video).

  3. You Freakin awesome man!!!!! You saved my money…i didnt use tester..but i did slam them on the i got a blistering hot in my dryer .. fuckin great man..thank you is not enough for this matter…you have a wonderfull day

  4. Great video! This was exactly what I needed in order to diagnose and repair my dryer. You saved me lots of time and money vs. calling a repairman. My only problem came from not taking a picture of the wiring when I disconnected. I was able to pretty easily trace wires back and paused your video to see where they all connected. Thanks and keep them coming! โœŒ๐Ÿผ

  5. Has anyone had problems i checked everything still reading good…anyway of cross checkin kenmore dryer won't heat…still no heat

  6. I canโ€™t believe your resetting technique worked!!! I was blown away by that !!! I ordered a new part , but meanwhile I ( my wife ๐Ÿ˜‰) can use the dryer.
    Great job with the video thank you for taking the time to do that.

  7. Great information! Tested & reset my thermal fuse and it worked! Thank You! Can you tell me what the yellow and red wire in the front is for? Mine was not connected.

  8. Great video! On high, my elements come on, go off, came back on briefly, then went off and stayed off. Can the thermal switches be tested in place by disconnecting one terminal? Thanks again.

  9. After replacing the thermal fuse you advised to trouble shoot as to why the fuse blew. However you never told us what you found or why the fuse blew???

  10. What a great video! I've done this before, but it's been about 15 years, and your tutorial is spot on. Thank you for taking the time to record and post it — I know it took effort, much appreciated.

    BTW, we bought our Kenmore washer and dryer in 1993 and they are both still working, albeit with a few do-it-yourself repairs over the past 26 years. I'll keep these until they are DEAD and no longer resurrectable!

  11. Thank you thank you! This was the most informative video I watched while trying to fix my dryer. I'm a single momma on a super limited income just trying g to save wherever I possibly can! Resetting that fuse…. Brilliant! I totally worked. I invested in a $13 harbor freight especial (lol)l volt meter to aid in the job now cant wait to use it again! Thanks so much for this high quality, oh so helpful video!

  12. William, brilliant bonus tip! Had just replace high temp thermostat 2 days ago. It went out again. (Everything cleaned prior to replacement, every component tested). Your reset trick worked, so far. Thanks!

  13. I just want to thank you so much for this video. Got me an ohm reader to add to my tools and had the same problem you had. Really clear instructions and nice that you checked everything. I did the same. Keep making good content. Thanks again really appreciate it. Saved me a bunch of $$$. -Jon

  14. (Problem Solved) Yes, the coils would go out shortly after starting the dryer. Ordered and installed new coils, and the clothes are now drying normally. Thank you for taking the time to address my individual concern. Now it is time for ribs!

    William, I have the same exact dryer as shown in your excellent tutorial. My concern is that just recently my clothes are taking longer to dry, and sometimes I have to run a few cycles until they are completely done. I do feel heat sometimes from the outside vent, and of course from the dryer itself. I have cleaned the lint from the screen, vent tube and the device under the lint screen after taking the bottom front panel off, as you did. So, which of the components do you suspect would be causing this concern? Will be borrowing a multimeter, and yes, I unplug the dryer every time I work on it. Thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide.

  15. NO HEAT. I replaced the elements, because 1 was broken, and still no heat. I checked all the thermal switches (all 5 of them) and they show continuity. I've noticed on my model there's a very small electronic board next to the timer. I'm not sure how to test that. I will also check the selection control, because if bad it will cause the no heat as well. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

  16. Amazing! I already knew my thermal fuse was bad so i got a new one, but this video still helped me to learn something new. That reset trick is by far the best thing I've seen. ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป

  17. Very nice video. My old Kenmore dryer has just started blowing cold air. Gotta investigate tomorrow. Thanks. Tom

  18. Thank you BIG TIME that was very educational for me here I was hunting down the wrong parts now I know what to look out for th hank you again

  19. Now, was your dryer not heating at all ? Mine is justbtaking forever I can see the element heating. Clothes is just taking almost 90 mins to dry on high for 3 pairs of pants, 4 shirts, 5 pr socks and polyester briefs.

  20. What is the name of the part that attaches to the bottom of the heating element on a Kenmore 80 series dryer is it a thermal cutoff switch or high limit thermostat or thermal fuse

  21. Good stuff. I was just looking for a video that showed normal coil glow so thanks for video on that. I have near the same guts setup on a old Kenmore. That reset trick is great though mine has a ceramic in that spot. But now I know what my test results should be & what part is what.

  22. The best tutorial ever. Thanks for the great and clear explanation .
    Click the thumb up button if you agree ..

  23. You didn't show how to test the timer. Can I assume if the timer moves and shuts the dryer off at end of cycle that it is fine? Or could it seem fine and still not send a signal to start the heating process. All the parts you showed tested fine on my dryer but still no sign of heat.

  24. You are the man. Dryer needed a cleaning and thermal disc needed to be reset. Everything else checked out perfect and the dryer is working great. My wife thinks I'm "The Man" again thanks to you.

  25. Great video! The high temp thermal switch was the problem… Smacked it on a floor. Checked continuity, put it back in and the dryer is working again. I also checked for obstructions and couldnโ€™t find anything noticeable. Thanks!

  26. Thank you so much! With the help of your video and a craftsmen ohm meter I was lucky enough to find in my garage (hadn't been used in about 25 years) I was able to easily find and test every component. It confirmed the heating element/coil is bad which I kind of suspected because it has been losing heat over time…….would not have been able to do this without your video….much appreciated…….just wish I watched it before I spent an hour trying to take apart the back of the machine! Thanks again!!

  27. I tapped that fuse/ thermol resister on the ground lightly 4 to 5 times and BAMM.. The heat element fired up. Thank you Sir

  28. Great and understandable video. When clothes are taking longer than usual to dry, could check for a broken element coil, grounding to the housing. Your dryer sounded a little loud, wouldn't hurt to check the rollers. Understand, I'm not trying to be a know it all, just throwing my two cents in! Take care!

  29. I just want to thank you so very much for making this video! I was told my heating element went out and it would be costly to buy the part and have a repair man to install it.. Luckily, your video was next after the heating element one and I immediately testing the parts you said. Turns out it was the thermal cut off and I did buy the set even though it was the back one that was faulty. I even tried to reset it as you said, but no luck. The parts cost the same as in your video and I repaired it myself! My only complaint is; why the hell are the parts on the left side when most people are right handed?!? So, I did struggle putting the bolts back on. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!

  30. Super incredibly helpful! Not only was I able to fix my dryer with the help of your excellent video, but I also learned a lot! Bravo sir, and thanks!!!

  31. I have a whirlpool dryer. I notice that is was overheating and would turn off. i order the fuse and the one underneath the fuse with the 4 prongs also the Thermal Cut off thermostat timer and the one above as well. I check continuity and omhs on all 4 everyone was meter well. But that didn't fix my problem no sir, the heating element stop heating, I order one replaced my old one. Bam! still no heat! moved up to my setting and checked the dial housing and cleaned it up a little since it tested well. it clicks it moves. all I have is air. Help please!

  32. Great video…since my dryer became inoperative after having already replaced all thermostats and the the thermal fuse, I became suspect of the heating element. Upon physical inspection, I came to find a break in the coil which had come in contact with the metal casing. This most likely caused the dryer to temporarily function but ultimately caused the subsequent blown thermal fuse…does that sound right to you?

  33. After 10 years of never any issues with our Whirlpool dryer , but it stopped working this month. Thanks for your video, I fixed the dryer and spent less than $33. Works like a Charm! I buy the dryer high limit thermal fuse and heating element set on Amazon.

  34. Thanks for the video, I just got this one from Harbor Freight and I was following along with you. I think the one I have does not work. I tried mine in a 120v outlet and it did not register any thing but it does come one. I will have to get a new one. My question to you is I have a Whirlpool (Kenmore)ย electric clothes dryer and I need to test the fuses and the heating element. The dryer runs but no heat. It is 240 volts 5200w and the part number is WP3387747, ย if this is any help to you. There is a tube that has the heating element on it with these two ย round fuses on it. I can't find any breaks in the element so it must be one of them. Can you tell me how to check them and what setting to use on this harbor freight multi meter. I have the same dryer, Thanks for the tip on resetting the fuse. I will try it.Thank You for your Help. 09/28/2019

  35. Found many good videos. This is one. This is good, but I don't have the orange wire …
    Several points from the one that helped me.
    Whirlpool Dryer Replace Thermostat & Thermal Fuse #279816
    If no orange wire ………. *
    Several other things:
    1) like this machine, mine did not have a 3rd (orange) wire. Most videos
    show that wire and require the male / female connector jumpers splice.
    2) while I did reset the old (upper) high-limit thermal trip by throwing
    it on the ground, 15 times before it made, I used it only as a test to
    prove that that was the only thing holding me back. After installing the
    new one, threw out the old one.
    3) after all repairs kept the back off and checked cycle times (90 on,
    45 off). ** This was after a 5 minute initial warm up in a warm house,
    on a warm day.
    4) while I did find a good online vendor from another videos referral, I
    used Cashwell Appliance in High Point and they were able to walk me
    through some questions, worth the extra money
    Dryer not heating up

  36. thanks William i appreciate your time, effort and knowledge of dryers. thanks for putting this vid together. keep up the good work!

  37. At what age do you not fix them anymore? I just changed the belt on my ca 1995 Kenmore electric dryer a year ago, had a fuse blown two years before that (professionally fixed) and now it won't heat, but it spins. Do I fix it or get a new one?

  38. Great video! Checked continuity, the same exact part had failed. Order new one off amazon, replaced, checked continuity again, and start dryer. Heating coil lit up, then I turned off the dryer. Next thing you know, the same part just failed the next day!! Any help here please?! Thanks so much.

  39. It is good to disconnect the wires but not necessary…. As long as it's not connected to the power outlet you are good

  40. Thats a lot of money for those 2 thermo switches, research the temperature, and use a old whirlpool kit with the same temp. You can find both switches in a kit on ebay for $8.95

  41. That thermal fuse towards the back[ the one you can re=set] keeps kicking out to the point where I have to take it out and reset it. I even bought a new one and same thing. I've checked the discharge tube for any obstructions and everything is clean. Any help would be appreciated.

  42. My girlfriend thinks you're a superhero.. we have a newer model Kenmore dryer series 100, but you're reset trick for the high limit fuse is pure gold. New part is on the way but til then we can still use the dryer…no more clothesline…. BRAVO!!!

  43. I reset the fuse successfully but popped back out so I ordered a new one. It worked for a few months and popped out also. Do you have any suggestions of what it might be?

  44. I replaced the timer; and then the thermal cut-off switch & the high-limit operating-cycling thermostat (about three times); the cut-off switch keeps failing. (I reset the cut-off switch-fuse as you did many times to reset it). I cleaned all vents & parts, yet the I see the heating element glow red only to go out & that the cut-out switch disk failed again. Could it be a circuit control board?

  45. After striking the thermal cut-off fuse on a hard surface, shake it next to your ear & you will hear the disc rattling if it's fixed. They usually fail increasingly faster after the first tripping of the disc.

  46. you mentioned the additional thermostat internal bias, and thermal fuse, but you didn't advise if the failure of either of these would also prevent the dryer from heating. my local parts store advised their are only four major parts to be concerned about, the heater element, thermal cut off, thermostat 250 deg. and the timer 60 hz itself.

  47. Great video and well done! Thanks much. Just wondering if at 14:50 of the video, once the reset is done, if the part will be likely to fail again (or fail more quickly)?

  48. ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿฟ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿฟ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿฟ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿฟ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿฟ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿฟ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿฟ

  49. @15:13 guy smashes camera trying to reset fuse.
    Next video: How to fix video camera. ๐Ÿ™‚

    Sorry..I could NOT resist. ๐Ÿ™‚

  50. I made my living for over 45 years by fixing appliances. and had my own business for 37 years. He is correct about the Thermal fuses they are most often the problem. When the air flow in Dryers is slowed down and the temperature is the dryer is high the thermal fuses will blow. If you find a problem it is rare that you will find another. The 2 nd thermal fuse will keep he is showing will not allow the dryer to run as it turns off the motor. The cause of these Fuses blowing is several things from opening the door when the dryer is is at maximum heat 2- the lint filter is packed with lint not allowing good air flow.3- vent plugged. 4- the air flow in the dryer is plugged somewhere. The thermal fuse reset is not a successful way to fix your problem as every time it trips it takes less heat to trip it next time. The sensor on the element that is in front is not a fuse it is a safety thermostat that only opens if their is to much heat in the heat chamber and it will reset its self when it starts to cool. I rarely ever found one bad but the 2 are sold as a kit. The reason is the big one will trip at lower temperatures also the more it trips. Keeping the air system in the dryer clean and the vent in good condition and not opening the door when the dryer is working will almost always stop these problems.

  51. Thanks for the video, very helpful. I didn't have access to a meter when our Kenmore Elite dryer stopped heating so after your video, I went for broke and ordered the heating element kit from Amazon – #3387747 (was $30 for the element and 3 sensors ) and received it the next day. Taking things apart was relatively simple doing cleanup as I went along. The dryer is 15+ years old so a little bit of debris.. Anyway, the sensors on the side of the heating chamber are tough to get at and gave me fits so I tried something different. I put the dryer on it's back and was able to stand up and get to the screws and assemblies. Flipped it back up and started the dryer and we're all set to go. I probably owe the wife a new one at some point but I'll take the $800 save on the replacement….Thanks again

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