MINI Cooper Speaker Upgrade/Installation | F54/F55/F56/F57 + Some R Series | BAVSOUND Stage One


[Inaudible] Good day. Welcome. Once again, that sound plus many, check it out. We are rocking minis moving
forward. It is June, 2016. We have spent the last year or so fine
tuning our mini offerings for you guys. And today we are in a
16 mini Cooper thing. This is a Cooper works. This is an S
model with the Harman Kardon system. So this will encompass
all minis basically. So if you don’t have the
Harman Kardon system, which will quite frankly be the majority
of you we won’t even worry about the pillars in the center channel
because your cars don’t have them. So we would only be concerned
with the door drivers, the side panel drivers back here, and
then the under seat woofers as well, which we’re going to tackle in this
video as well as supplemental video. So if you see something, if you see us working on a pillars
and you don’t have tweeters up here, you can fast forward to the rear of the
car or the next part of the car rather and go from there. So without further ado, what we’re doing here is we’re doing
our stage one plug and play speaker upgrade, which is the same product we’ve been
offering for BMWs for the past 12 years, tailored just towards the mini Cooper. So we’re taking out
these lackluster humdrum, harsh factory drivers and then
upgrading again with our, our, our proprietary designs, which are consisting of the curvilinear
fiberglass woven cones on our mid ranges. Big, juicy, smooth 25 millimeters silk dome tweeters. And on our, of course our
brilliant under seat go subwoofers, which are going to tighten up the mid
base and most specifically give you that extra RF on the bottom
end. So let’s get started. It couldn’t be more straight forward. Many did a brilliant job on
the way we get the doors apart. It’s the same on the
passenger and the driver. So we’re just shooting on the
passenger side for lighting purposes. So there are four screws holding the
door on one behind a little cup here, one under this and one
on either side down here. So we only use plastic tools here.
We do not use the metal tools. We’ve got our bath sound
toolkit, highly recommended. It’s critical actually
for this installation. So inside of that we’ve got a plastic
toolkit, panel removal tool, and a metal. We’ll use this later, but we start
with this. So first things first, very simple. This just pops right out. It’s just a couple of little clips. You can use your fingers
and boom pulls right out. Just a couple little clips back there.
Nothing fancy but that out to the side. Come to the window switch.
And actually this was, that was really easy. So yeah, so then
that just comes out unplugs like so. And now all four screws are revealed,
so it’s a torque T 20 again, that is included in the bath
sound toolkit. We’ve got
our screwdriver bit here, and then there’s any number of
Torx screws. Actually in the mini, you only need Torx [inaudible] in this
particular generation mini. And again, this is applicable to all of
you with this generation mini. So if you’ve only got one speaker
in your door, in your mini, this video is applicable to you. If you’ve got that secondary mid
Wolfer down here. You can still, she just kind of talk you
through that right now. So if you’re watching this video
and you’re like, Hey my, my, my mini has an extra speaker
down here, good news for you. You don’t have to take all this off. You can just pop off this pod and
then there’s three screws and then the speaker, it’s like a five second install. So if you’ve got one speaker in your
car, proceed with watching this video. If you’ve got two in the door
we won’t be upgrading this one. We’ll just be doing the mid range
upgrade where we’re adding a, an additional tweeter as well. So
there’s that bit of info right there. So down here, another
secret hidden Torx T 20, We’ll find that again, I always touch on this
with BMW owners as well. If any of this seems confusing to you, if you’re not sure that the turning left
loosens a screw and right tightens a screw, go ahead and pause right now and find
someone to help you out with that. Mmm. Maybe your grandpa, he’ll know
grandpa’s know this stuff. Or a professional. We have a network of
about 80 dealers nationwide actually. Yeah, about 80 independence right now that
can handle this for you so you can find that information on our
website. Otherwise, again, this is super straight forward.
We’re just taking out a few screws. It’s all plug and play bolts right
in. It’s specific to your many. So so four screws out the car is the doors
otherwise held on by a series of clips. They just run the perimeter of
the car and then clips up here. So we’re just going to lift the
door panel out. And to do that, we use the plastic tool again as follows. And I like to start up
here because it gets, it’s a great leverage point to start the
panel freeing from both the top and the outer perimeter. So again, come
in with the hook tool here. Kinda just wedge it in there and
you hear that. So we’ve broken, it’s not the right word. We freed
the clip, the first set of clips. And then once I get that done,
I usually just use my fingers. Let me come around. Plastic down here is not smooth.
So be conscientious of that. When you’re doing this,
it’s kind of sharp. Hang his in tight. Jeez Louise. That one was Titan. I’m kind of glad you saw that because
you might experience that too. It’s just you’re not breaking
anything. They’re just tight clips. So you see these little black
kind of rings. These go. Once I get the door panel off, I’ll show you these go between the hard
plastic of the door and then the the door itself. So it’s just
a little isolation device. So we want to make sure
we put those back on. So I will actually put those up here
where I can see them and then we come across the top and then the door list right off. So on the backside there’s a couple
things we’re going to do and move from there. So the door clip assembly, this will be your finger,
it just lifts right off. So when you put it on it goes
like that and you take it off. So it’s really hard to do that
up. Super straight forward. Now because many has wa has intricately
woven this harness throughout the door panel. All we’re going
to do because we got, we don’t want to take all this time is
we’re going to unhook these two little tabs here and then we’re
going to pry this guy, this one tab loose up front like so and
then we’re putting the door panel down on the ground because otherwise
you will spend all day doing that. Now again, if you’ve got
the Harmon Kardon system, like this car will just be replacing
this with a, with a mid range driver. If you’ve got this standard Cooper, we’ll be putting an integrated point
source coaxial system in this location. So again, this is the
Harmon Kardon vehicle. So the way I like to do it is as follows,
we just unplugged the driver like so. And then I unscrew the
pod from the door itself. And the reason I do that
is twofold. Number one, we’re going to be
installing sound deadening, which is critical because we’ve got a
lot of metal surface here and we want to dead that, that area where the driver mounts so
that we can maximize our mid based performance. Number two, it gives us a space to take
this over to our work bench. And then I’ll show you how to properly
seal the new speaker to the factory pod. What am I doing? Total brain fart, huh?
All right. So we just take this guy out. These are all torques T twenties is
the only bit size used in this car eventually. So that out of the way we’re going
to kind of we’ll talk about the sound deadening and how are
we going to apply it? So I don’t know what the hell I
put it. It’s over there. So anyway, we’ll get into that in just a moment. What we’re going to do
now is go ahead and you, what I would suggest doing is
getting off both door panels, doing this all at once. I get, I get
the whole front of the car apart. Get everything over to your workspace. So you’ve got each pod over on your
workspace, which we’ll go to in a moment. Each a pillar where we can remove the
factory tweeter, put in the new bath, sound, Twitter. I just like doing everything all at once
so that it’s some people would argue otherwise. I like to, I just, it just feels better to me
to knock it out all at once. So that being said we might
need to pause it here, change our lighting a little bit so
we can come up into the a pillar. All right guys. So again, we are in the eight pillars of a
Harman Kardon equipped mini Cooper. If you don’t have these tweeters up here, you don’t have the Harman Kardon system
and you do not need to watch this unless you want to learn maybe some beauty
tips that I might offer up during this segment fashion. You know, I had celebrity gossip. I don’t
know about any of these things. It’s all a lie. All right? This is super
simple. As I had touched on before, there’s a metal clip here, a plastic
clip here, and a plastic clip here. And then here, and here are two
little tabs that just go down. So the strategy here is to pull out and
up and in the a pillar comes right out. So this functions as a
weatherstripping obviously, so we can use her up here. You
don’t need to take this out. There’s something psychological
about it so you can take your hand. And down here at the
bend, he just pull out like, so just do that, just takes
a little tension off the panel. Just makes it a little
easier to get. This is again, it’s completely designed to come off
like that, so no sweat, no worries. Now how do we get this off? You can
use your fingers, quite frankly. You can see it’s, it’s,
it’s already loose. So so there’s the strategy
there, which again, you can get back there and then
check it out. You just hang on. I am, need to reposition my seat
a little bit better action. So you get it out like that. And then
lift up and then it comes right off. Now we dropped off all the clips.
Actually this one came out. Usually this one stays in the
middle clips, usually the challenge. So no worries. We just unplugged
this tweeter like so and say this is, it takes two seconds to do and now is
where we need our metal panel removal tool. So we come through like,
so pop it out, don’t pry on this. That is an airbag, leave it be. I’m just rock that out like so like so put it right back in here. And then we’re going to
take our mid base pod. And in your case you’ll have four to
mid based pods to a pillars and quite frankly, I’m also going to instruct you to go
ahead and take the back of the car out. So whether you have a coop or a a
convertible, I mean, sorry, a, yeah, a coupe convertible or
a four or five door. We want to just have all of our panels
that we’re going to be working on on our workspace at the same time so that
there’s just a fluidity to it all. I, it just, it feels better and it’s
just more psychologically rewarding. All of that sounds silly. I get
it, but believe me, after 20 years, you figure some things out.
So let’s pause it here. We’re gonna reconvene actually in the
back of the car where we will start dismembering as it were, the seats
and the side pounds. It’s, it’s a F, it’s a five minute process,
but psychologically, again, it seems like pretty cumbersome. So let’s pause it and get the back
lit and move there. All right guys. So this is removing the
back seat out of your mini. It’s gonna be the same across the three
doors and the convertibles for the most part, it convertibles is
couple of little variations. But if you watch this video could
still sort your convertible as well. So this does not have to
be done in four doors or Clemens or countrymen’s. Hell,
if you’ve got four doors, don’t worry about this part. The rear doors and your car will be just
like the front door is minus a couple of little things, but they’re basically identical and
you can totally sort that again. So bottom cushion, most of you are going
to have these Cooper coops by the way, Amy. So Bob Cushion, lift up, lift up, look at that two seconds. It’s out. Now we need to remove
the very back cushions, which I need to see how this is going to
look best on film. I need to see if, so you know, all we’re doing
is we’re folding this down, we’re folding them down and
then there’s a hook back here. So I’ll show you a little trick here. I went and broke the shit out of
this so that you don’t have to I’ll show you how it comes off. So we’ve
got this piece off. The strategy here, this is how it works.
It fits over like that. So the strategy is do you
pry off the front edge? So facing the front of the car and lift
out and I’ll show you how it connects. And then lift the whole
thing up there. Just pry up. There’s a 10 millimeter here. And
again in the bad sound toolkit, there is a 10 millimeter bit
that goes into screwdriver. So now let’s see what that
lifted out of the way. The way this clipped on the front was this follows. So all we did, all we needed to have done
was free it and then lift up. So with that out of the
way, we can know, voila, lift the seats out. It’s a little bit easier to get this.
It’s actually easy to get both sides. This is just a larger side, which people
may feel is a bit more cumbersome. So all we do is we lift up, Tilt the seat back, and just pull
in towards the middle of the car. And now our seats are out of the
way, which gained us full access to Our side panels. So here’s
something also that’s kind of odd. These side panels are held
in by nothing but clips. So the process here is
really straight forward. There’s a clip here and a clip here
that we need to remove and we’ll do that with our metal panel removal tool, which I conveniently left
in the front of the car. And then we have to take out the C pillar and the B pillar. So we’ll pop this off, we’ll pop this off and then this
whole panel pops off. So it’s, it’s really straight forward. So the
seats are out, everything is exposed. Now, the dirty work, which again, it’s still is pretty super damn straight
forward. It’s just a couple of minutes. So metal panel removal tool, you have two clips here we’re actually
doing is we’re going to hook behind That clip, pull it out so it’s actually can kind
of see pretty standard clip there. So just what do you hook and pull out? Very standard automotive
clip. Same up there. And now that gives us access
to the backside of this panel. We get this out, we get this out there actually
as a Torx [inaudible] back there. But in terms of getting all these
outer panels off, no screws. So these guys here, the
B pillar, the C pillar, plastic panel removal tool, you can actually see this has never
been off before and they’re already, you know, they’re already
really loose. So all you do, you can sometimes you just
get your finger back there. Don’t pry on the glass though. It’s not
wise. I’m sure I’ll get it. There we go. Okay. So what we can we do
for you from the bottom. Okay, so free from the bottom.
Cool man. We pulled down, that’s right down and out. So initially we pop out the bottom and
then we pull the whole housing down and that can just stay down here.
It’s completely fine there. And that’s gonna reveal a
Torx T 20 right back here. And the trick here, and this is actually where you can go
bananas with the sound deadening material that we’ve got left over. We
want to go all around with this. Well the speaker here mounts to the car, so we of course want to
focus on that area. Alright, these guys we want out of
the car, he’s metal clips. And the reason is because they engage
much better when they’re on the panel that you’re putting in. All right, so easy enough. So put that down there so you can
see there’s just metal everywhere. So if you’re one of those people like
me that likes a super duper quiet dead car, just buy tons and tons of sound deadening
and you can just put it back here and completely transform the interior. So
same thing back here, kind come back, Pull from the bottom. Hey, this is sharp plastic
too. So keep that in mind. And it’s a mini Cooper. So they’ve put hard plastic on
hard plastic and hard plastic. So all that in mind,
gals, your fingers open. Yeah, in real time. This really only takes a few minutes
if you’re not trying to film it. Oh, that’s right. So there’s this tricky metal clip back
here and actually you want to lift up like that to this metal cliff.
So when you get this panel free, there’s only one clip plus
this. So when you get it free, then lift up and then we snap it back
in and it’ll just snap right back in normally. So again, it reveals
one more Torx T [inaudible]. It looks like the front, there are two more metal clips back here
that we want to get off of the female panel And put back on the male panel. Here is where we now quite literally
just pull this panel out of the car. So with our hands from
the top, from the top, we just pull out like, so this is back here, this back here. So this is again, this is
just you just lift it out. A couple of clips up here. So then the magic of this panel is, well we’ve got like a light back here
we need to unplug and you may have a 12 volt outlet as well. You unplugged the light and at this point
we just lift the panel out of the car that’s going to leave a
tweeter that we need to unplug. So make sure you do that.
With the tweeter unplugged, we pull the whole panel out
of the car and we, again, we repeat this process on both sides. And we’re going to take the panel up to
our workspace where we’re going to do the tweeter along with
all the other tweeters. And then of course the mid midwifery,
just like we had mentioned, it mounts directly to the car. So we’re going to put tons
of sound deadening back here, being careful enough to cover up these
holes where the panel adheres of course. And we’ll make that sound like don’t,
don’t, don’t, don’t when we’re done. So you know what hell, we’re back here.
I think you’ve got the tools right here. This is a Torx T 20 again. So we just pulled this guy outta here
and then of course I don’t, you know, try to reinstall it pretty damn
straight forward now with our driver so that we could get, do the cone design and the surround design
that we did to optimize our mid range performance. Our plugs are on
the back side of the driver. Boy, I hope that didn’t go where I
just think it went, yeah. Let’s, let’s hope I’m gonna plug this. So
our, our driver has the, the cord, the plug coming off the back. So we would route it down and then out
of this hole down here and then plug it in there. So, all right, we’re gonna have some cold water and
meet you guys on the bench and knock out all the rest of the installation. We are here in our workspace
where we are tackling, you will have two eight
pillars, two rear side panels, and then two front mid base housings. And we’re going to do all that at once
just because again, it’s methodical, it’s rational, it’s sane and
that’s how we’re going to roll. So first things first, let’s start
with our eight pillars. So again, the factory tweeter just snaps right in. So using our little plastic angle pick, which is actually metal
with plastic handle, we just take this guy and they
just pries right on outta here. So again, be gone with harshness. Welcome to our beautiful, it’s a machine to aluminum housing with
this silk dome, 25 millimeter tweeter. It snaps perfectly into the factory location as if it was
factory. It’s really snug in there, just as snug as the
factory tweeter. However, because we were super hyper village
vigilant about all this stuff for all the tweeters. So for your front
Twitters and your rear tweeters, we should have a little tube of this East
6,000 which is a super fantastic quick drying kind of Silicon base adhesive. And I just put just just
for precautionary measures, just a little dab there
and a little dab there. That’s all you gotta do. And just let that cure for about 15
minutes while you’re working your way around. This is just, we don’t
want any movement. Again, you can even see the factory
tweeter, the factory tweeter. I can, I can twist and turn in here.
And so they didn’t glue it, but we’re gonna cause I don’t want to
deal with it. So we, when we moved this same thing on the rear factory,
Twitter just pops out of the housing. So just like that it comes out. And The Babs on Twitter snaps right back in. Whoa, be careful. These, this
plastic is seemingly sharp. I think I just impaled myself. Ah, voila. Perfect. That is actually really
tight. But you know what, cause we like to do things right
and make sure we nurse again, just a dab dab there, maybe a dab here and we’ll never ever think about
that again. That’s perfect. So now a couple of things to note on
the speakers on the rear tweeters, they come with a specific set of adapters, which again will bring the two, it’ll bring the factory Twitter or the
Babs on Twitter to connect down to the Babson mid range. And
then on the front tweeter, this plugs into the factory
side of the connector. This plugs into the bass on Twitter. So
this will drop down into the a pillar. This here is a little trickier
because we don’t, excuse me, we don’t want any chance of this coming
into contact with the mid range here. So a couple of ways you could do
it. You could put it down like this to keep it totally out of the way,
which I super duper suggest you do. So and do all of that and then pull
this down and the hell away from the mid range. And that way when we put
this back together we can
just plug it in and this will be down here out of the way. And rattle Free. Same thing up here.
There’s tons of padding and this, these things are insulated. You’re not gonna ever hear
him or anything like that. So that takes care of the tweeters.
Again, same on both sides. So no, no shenanigans, they’re very clear
cut, very straight forward process, which brings us back
to our mid range driver again as always torques T 20 so we just removed the OIE
driver and you can see it’s got this super tiny little seal on it. And again, we’re putting on a a much
more comprehensive seal, which further isolates the front
and rear waves of the mid range, which again it brings that
mid range out into the car. So just a little little design and
engineering tweaks go a long way. So here’s the OIE driver, here’s
the Bab sound driver. Again, it’s, it’s really no company. Again, the factory phone ring off
the front through the back, just drop this down like so. Make sure that ring is aligned properly. Which again you think it would
be really easy to do it just, it never is there. No it is. And again you just, just the way to the
driver will see it moved. So you got to do have to watch it. So just like we did in the back,
you kind of get one screw in there, then you get the second and third, then you just confirm
alignment of the gasket. So we just want the speaker positioned as well. That settled in
perfectly. So no worries. So now we just be careful
here. You don’t obviously. So with the mid range attached
to the [inaudible] housing such the last thing we do, I don’t know where I left
them. So I am on the hunt. Ah, we have yet another, just like the rear, you applied the new Gasket. We don’t ship them this way because
they get, they always get messed up. So we got to have you guys do it.
But no worries. It’s not hard. So there now we have a perfectly
sealed midwife first sedan. Again, we’ll take this back over to the door in
a show you how to reinstall this. It’s, I mean it’s pretty self explanatory. You really probably shouldn’t have
to watch it but we’ll cover it. Never the less. So that kind
of wraps up our bench work. And again we’ve done two midway offers
to eight pillars and two side panel tweeters as well. So we’ve
done all that in this space. So we’re going to pause it here. Go drink
some water cause it’s a 463 degrees. It gets hotter every time. If you’re
keeping track of the degree of hot ness. And we’ll see in a moment
reinstalling the rear panel is, is exactly the opposite of removing it. But there’s a couple of little tricks I
want to make you aware of. Number one, make sure you’ve plugged in your mid
range and then when you put the panel back on, make sure you plugged in your tweeter
before you put it all back together permanently. Take a quick list.
And again, we’re not auditioning, we’re just making sure that audio
is playing from the speakers. We just want to confirm, even
though everything’s tested, we things happen in shipping on
on occasion. So that being said, let’s get this panel back in so it’s
going to magically appear from the side frame. Get a little assistance, get that. And so there is one trick and
one trick only to doing this. Seatbelts are number one. Number two, I feel sorry for any of you.
Bigger than 170 pounds doing this, this rear seat, it has to go in like
that. There’s a bracket down here. The panel has to go behind that bracket
or you will hate life when you put this whole thing in and then realize you got
to take the whole damn thing back apart. So look, even, even though I’ve done
this, that is where it has to sit, right? So everything
will otherwise line up. Now the next thing you’ve got to check
and you’ve got to line up this front edge down here and you’ve got
to make sure that the panel again stays behind there.
Season behind here, we don’t have any impediments.
Don’t rush this. If you rush this, it’s not fun. So now on this side we’ve got three clips, so we want to get those lined
up first lined up, lined up, lined up. So then you guys
can see what I’m doing. I’m peeling back this weatherstripping
and I don’t really have the tools, so we’re peeling back the weatherstripping
to make room for the panel to seat back properly. The key here is just taking the 10 seconds
before you try to put this huge panel on to make sure that Hey, we’re
behind the seatbelt bracket B and when I’ve just found out here, don’t think that those all got in there and now going down through here, you
don’t, can you? Yeah. You know what? Maybe you just pull the whole
thing. Yeah, you look at that. Perfect. So that leaves that Torx T 20 that we
had taken out earlier. Reinstall that Good thing. There’s a nine
inch long screw to adhere this. All right. Now with everything else
in perfect alignment, you can just redo this
guy. A little clip is here, one is there. I had mentioned
earlier, I misspoke. It is easier to leave these
metal clips in this panel before you re-install this
panel. Again, let me come up a line from the top.
Everything just naturally, it just wants to go
back where it came from. And then again over here,
this weatherstripping, this godforsaken weatherstripping, which prevents any and all happiness before you snap it. Oh my gosh, there we go. Now snap it back into place. Pear fat Sean. All right, so with that sorted now come to the
back where we have to tuck the carpet up between the side panel. No, forget this guy back here. Let’s
get that one snap right here and then we’ve got to just, all right, now all we’re doing here, you’ve got to tuck this carpet
up underneath the panel here. So pretty straight forward.
Just bend it like that. And then we just, again, with
our weatherstripping, you just, you gotta do it just like that. Just how it goes. And
that leaves us at last with our two little plastic clips, which I have conveniently misplaced. So let’s do it and do this until I
discover where I might’ve put those, that last Torx [inaudible] in there. So I guess there’s clips
here around here somewhere to have them. Here’s other one. So you put those guys back in like, so what? On the top one on the bottom. And voila. So then we just
re-install our C pillar the same manner we did the B pillar
and then we put the back seats back in, Which I gotta tell you
guys, it’s so damn hot, I don’t have the energy to
show you how to do that. It comes out the way it goes
in the way it came out. Right? Let’s just have that BR thing. And again, our weatherstripping per fact. All right man. I’m
pretty stoked on that actually. I went together super flipping well. All right, so the panel is all
back together in real time. I keep saying this, it’s like 15 minutes
aside, maybe 20, 20 minutes aside. And you’re doing two
speakers or four or whatever. So a seat reinstallation
again, that’s, you know, I guess we’re going to
show you, it’s so damn hot, but we’re going to show you anyway. Maybe we can just keep the lighting
as it is and we can get like some, we can get the seats coming in through
the backside. Actually. You know what? Let’s just do that guys. Cause the
bottom cushion is so easy to do that I, I’m just, I can’t show you that, but
I can show you these backseats. Yeah, that’s right. All right, so we put the outside in first maybe. Is it keyed? It’s keyed. Okay. Alright, perfect. And then, okay, I’ve run out of room. Oh, okay. Oh it’s hot. It’s so hot. I don’t even
know how to describe to you guys up. Miserably hot. It is it here. Alright. And you put this thing back on, you might remember from
earlier where we broke it. You put this guy back on
just to cure it all. Maybe. Maybe you do. It doesn’t really seem like it’s
lining up particularly well. Here we go. Do we just do that 10 mill back in
and the net piece snaps right back on perfection. Pull everything back up like so. And then we are done. So sound deadening front doors kind of
eyeballed piece one is about eight inches long and 12 inches tall. So
we cut that with a blade. It’s nice and thick. It’s super dense and now we need to get
it nice and tacky so it adheres to the car. So we peel off the backing. Most
of you are not going to have a heat gun. Most of you however, will have hair
dryers. If you’re bald like me. No you won’t. You don’t have to go
borrow one from either your spouse, the neighbor. He kind of weird. Maybe just we ordered this
on Amazon for 20 bucks, but, or you just leave it out
in the sun for a few hours. All we’re doing is just
getting the back of this tacky. It just takes a little time. I
don’t know, 20 seconds, 30 seconds. Keep in mind it’s gonna be harder
than hell. When you pick it up, bring your hands a little bit. A couple of beers will
alleviate those concerns, right? So get that away from anything important. And then we come over here and we want
to focus on the area where the speaker mounts so you can see you’ve
kind of what I did there. And then you kind of just preliminarily
adhere it to the door at which point we take like the back of either our panel
tool or our screwdriver and we just run over it. They kind of get it
to fit the contours of the car. As you can see up here, there’s little contours around things.
Pretty neat actually. See, just beautifully fits the contours. And then over here just, just let it
tack up onto the sound deadening there. Let’s be kinda careful. These
edges there it is aluminum. See there? How many just kind of
outline the speaker like that. Can you take a blade like
a Exacto knife or whatever? Just be conscientious of
what you’re doing here. You don’t want to cut your
fingers off. Maybe you do. I’m not here to judge you, but so this is still a perfectly valid
piece of sounded and you just slap it up here. Perfect. Bam. Excellent. Then you just again go
through with your finger, kind of just let it come down around. We want to control the energy coming
off of the mid range into the door and that’s, that’s what this does per sec shown wild law. Now this seems really simple and
obvious, but you’d be surprised. So we obviously have covered up
the screw holes for the speaker. So we’ve kind of reached
around. He said, reach around, try to find those holes,
kind of Mark them loosely. This is actually a terrible,
terrible way to do this. And I’ll tell you why because
you can’t see anything. And so you’re really, I think I might forgotten
pretty darn close on this one. Believe you me, it’s a nightmare to go
through here and you try and do it. Okay, so we’ve got our midwife
or pod ready to go. We just need to bring the wires out
over here with these factory wires. So there’s just kind of like some,
we used to call this speaker snot, you can see it’s just this black
stuff like that. So all we do, if we drop wire down through here, bring them back around like so. And here’s where the challenge comes. You’ve got to remember which way the damn
thing was oriented. I’m just kidding. Sure. [inaudible] You want it? Oh,
I’d always show you ain’t right, right? Ain’t right. That’s right. You’re there for right
there. Perfect. All right, cool. So I want to do that. We just want to make sure we pull those
wires nice and tight so that they’re not in the way of [inaudible] the
window track. And I will show you what I mean Matt. So again, we want to
get that start with the pod mountain and like I had mentioned to you, yeah, this part can sometimes be frustrating
as hell because you don’t know where the damn holes are cause you covered them up and eyeball it and just hope the screw counter sinks and it ain’t really happening
as you can see us here. So what you do in this case is, well yeah, you put it all down as you
can tell. I’m exhausted. It’s so unbelievably hot today. Alright. This is just, I mean this is Really, it’s kind of unreal. I’m nearly, you find it in
this pokes right through. I am striking out time after time. There it is right there. All right, let’s try that again. So usually
when you get one of them it’ll, it’ll kind of align itself the other way. The rest of them will have a fallen suit, especially if you’ve kind of eyeballed
it close and you can kind of see, Oh yeah that makes sense. Again you think you might have it, This is why you’ve got to watch all
the way through cause you think, Oh it’s just reverse of the removal man. It was that simple. All right. So fantastic. As they say. All right. So at this point we pull everything tight, get the wires secure and out of the way. And then we just plug in
the mid range wire like so and it is and then we just tuck it like, so we’ve just wrapped the tweeter
wire around cause we don’t need it. So I just kinda did this last
few time. Let’s wrap it like so wa LA. So that allows us to put
the whole panel back on as a whole. And if you remember we only took
out that one little tab from up here where we had, let’s see if, so first you want to guide
the wires back through or you will end up with like that. Let me see. And then we are free to put
everything back together. The door handle and the lock mechanism. So we just line up the key like so door panel goes on exactly as it came off And then we just Oh right that completed. Oh boy. I am mentally defeated here. All
right, so we just reinstall the screws. Exactly how we done it before. And that’s going to be that. I hope you aren’t doing this in the heat
of the summer without air conditioning. I hope that you are in a pleasant
environment, that your day was lovely, that you will be able to enjoy
your stage one peace and harmony. Yeah, it didn’t evitable right now we just put it in this last screw.
Again. Nothing exciting to see here. This part answer some
emails or some phones. Well the video shows
like it’s a long time, but if you’re just doing this in the
space of your garage, it’s, it really is. It’s five minutes a door and so
then this just snaps right back in Like so. Maybe It’s just so hard to get him.
I can’t even do this. That’s, that’s kind of where the day
is. This really is simple. I don’t understand why I’m really unable
to convey that to you and any sort of meaningful way today.
Yeah, so just snaps in. Whew. All right guys. That was out of the probably
200 videos I filmed. This was the most difficult by
far in terms of heat management. So it just goes back in. And so everything is perfect
and everything is beautiful. So we’re going to kind of pause it here
and go drink some more water. Come back, wrap up the a pillar and then
put the trunk back together. And finally tackle the ghost loafers. We are here in the mini Cooper front
a pillars. Harman Kardon. Again, if you don’t have Harman Kardon
you don’t have to sweat this. You’re already actually done with your
stage line. So what are we doing here? Simple. We’re plugging in the bath sound harness between
the factory mini connector. We’re taking all the cab harness,
we’re talking it down here. We are lining up these two guys Here. How are we doing that? You
might ask. Well, there’s some, there’s some luck involved so you’ll know that’s not right. We
can tell because there was a gap. So there that is right. There we go. Perfect. So it’s
really just you just kind of lining them up back there. I mean,
I wish there was like a better, more descriptive way to
give you that information. You know, they’re just,
there just isn’t, I don’t, I wanted it to be super duper easy, but it just didn’t work that way. So I think they’ve
probably wanted that. No, that sits back in there
nice and tight. That’s just, I’m just used to different
tolerances. So it’s a perfect, you can see it’s a perfectly lined up.
Everything is nice. It feels beautiful. Look sexy. Dice it all up. Clean
it up. I’m from there. Yeah, that’s really just how it rolls man. Wrapping up everything else. We finish
here a top, the dashboard again, this is for the Harman
Kardon only vehicles. The rest of you are already done and
will be enjoying the stage one at this point. We have one last driver
again, plastic, plastic, plastic, plastic. There’s a mid range
and a tweeter under this grill. So to access them plastic panel
removal tool underneath the grill. Honestly that thing is in there. Tack, That’s a technical term
by the way. Oh, howdy. Well, I promise it pops out.
I’ve done it before. There we go. All right. You got to get
one of them loose. So again, we just pry out once this mostly
out and dah, dah, dah, dah, do that. So how do we get
these out of there? Well, you can do some of them
with the screwdriver and
then for that Twitter we’re going to need to use the angle driver, which is included again
in the best sound toolkit. Arguably you will use this tool thousands
of times in your life for various projects. This toolkit, again, it comes in this really slick canvas case. You can just take it around with
you from now on. Should be a part, it will be a third basically a third arm if you will. It’ll be so handy. People will probably, your buddies
are probably steal it from you guys. Three torts [inaudible]
holding the look at that. You can actually get the
flip and screwdriver up
there irrespective of what I had just said or have this news rather. This angle driver is still awesome and maybe we don’t need it right
now, but there will come a time when you least expect. It should also be noted that it
is 176 degrees here at Bev. Sound today in San Diego because we
have to close up the office to film, which means there’s no
damn crossbreeds in here. So we just unplugged the Twitter.
Actually just unplug it like that. See, I’m plugged to OIE, this horrible, horrible aluminum Twitter
out of our lives. Be gone. Beautiful. Silk dome. Welcome to hell. They do this.
I can put it down there. I don’t know why they didn’t know. Anyway, we’re going to put the
tweet down there. Look, so it bolts right in
to the factory locale. Start these screws with your fingers.
And the biggest tip I have here, don’t drop these screws down into this
dashboard. You will never find them and for the rest of your days they will
rattle and you will slowly go insane and we’ll read about you on
the news one day. All right, so now we plug in our Twitter
to our mid range like so again, our factory connector
to bath sound driver like so, and then pull off this rubber boot
from the motor structure that serves no acoustical purpose. It’s
simply to make it look fancy. You dropped the mid range down in here applying kind of uniform downward pressure and again start with your fingers. So, And I’m going to show you a little
trick with this midwife because it’s our cone area is a slightly larger
than that of the factory driver. And so what that means is that
the cutout for the woofer, it’s about a millimeter and hell,
it’s about a quarter of a millimeter. Also can’t see up here. It’s
not really helping my cause. Well I don’t have to tell you guys, I can’t actually cannot get up in here
willing to, let me see what the hell. There we go. And then while the prying uniform
pressure down on the mid range on the two legs, screw the rest of it down and
don’t torque it down all the way. We want to keep things kind of uniform. You see how you got some
give on the speaker. We kind of want it to settle
into place kind of just uniformly this guy Like so and now I got to
tighten up the Twitter as well. Exciting stuff. I know. Beautiful, beautiful. The mid Nice and secure. There’s a rubber
gasket on the bottom of our mid range. It’s sealed up against that
factory housing. And voila law. We’ve installed our center channel
upgrades. So again, as always, quickly turn the car on. I have a quick listen [Inaudible] Just to confirm [inaudible] confirm Where’s the beats? Perfect. So again, we’re not auditioning
cause we, it’d be like, you know, putting in one shotgun and
going out and driving the car. So we’re just confirming
everything is cool. So let’s pause here and since
we’re wrapping everything up, we can go back into actually, you
know what, there’s no sense in it. So effectively the stage one, the way I put it together is we want
the base and the trouble flat we want, and this is on both HKN standard cars.
So base in trouble, flat go through, turn your speed volume, go through
your volume setting, speed, volume all the way down. Because what
that does is as the RPMs increase, it pulls base out of the car. So the
less we let that impact the sound, the better it’s going to sound as
the car goes faster. Otherwise, it just sounds really weird at speed. And balance and fader
in the middle of course, and then treble to your
taste. As time goes on, we want to get to speakers
about 10 hours to break in. They’re going to get just
progressively warmer as they break in. And so after that 10 hour period, if you find you want a
little more presence, I don’t know if that’s really
the right word, but a little, a little bit more volume
throughout the upper frequencies. You can boost the
trouble a bit, but again, these are silk so they’re going to be
very smooth and so they shouldn’t need any further. Accentuation so that really wraps up
how I guess I should show you this part. I putting the, the thing that
I can, so again, guess what? It just drops right back in
just like it came out. So snap that right back in and we
are done with the stage one. So thank you guys for joining us. We will see you in the future as we
continue to roll out new and innovative speaker upgrades. For your awesome cars. [Inaudible] [Inaudible].

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14 thoughts on “MINI Cooper Speaker Upgrade/Installation | F54/F55/F56/F57 + Some R Series | BAVSOUND Stage One

  1. If you happen to break a plastic clip, be sure and remove andor replace it before you put the door panel back on, or it will rattle and buzz incessantly.

  2. id love to have a complete replacement… subs..mids.. i have the standard system… any package are available?

  3. Very well done video. Quick question; what size are the front and center speakers ? Are those 4"?

    Kind regards
    Alfonso

  4. These are advertised as plug and play – Ha 1hr install from an expert – If i was to do it I would need a couple of days.  Not being naive thinking that there is such a thing as plug and play speakers for cars but the advertising is misleading to the uninitiated

  5. Sir, a bit too long to watch,but do you know the wattage of the stock woofers and how comparable they are to 35W x 2 5inch woofers of some shelf Speakers?Thank you anyway

  6. In non hk system the centrale speaker wire are present and Active? And for the OEM system without hk Is possibile to upgrade speaker same at this video ? Ti enance Power and quality? (Exuse for write error I write from Italy) 🙂

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