Osmosis Blister Repair and Hand Painting Our Hull (Roll and Tip Method) – Free Range Sailing Ep 69

– [Pascale] The work at the
boatyard continues this week as we repair the osmosis
blisters in our hull and demonstrate an easy
and cost-effective way to hand-paint your hull. (“Build a Boat” by Gymnast) – In previous episodes, you
saw us filling minor holes on Mirrool’s hull. (electronic music) With the resin cured it was
time to fare the repairs in preparation for the next step. (electronic music) I’m a bit sweaty under here,
but it’s nice and breezy, which is good. We’re really lucky with the weather. (electronic music) – [Troy] Okay so here
we’ve got quite a large osmosis blister that we’ve opened up. And we’ve ground it all the way back ’till, well there was
no liquid left annymore. Okay there’s like a red,
viscous liquid in there and we kept grinding until it came away and actually left a bit of a red stain here on the fiberglass. Well we’ve got rid of the osmotic problem but now, we’ve got a big patch of our hull that’s missing some glass. So we’re gonna have to replace that. We can’t just bog over it. Well, we can but it’s not
the right thing to do, okay? So we wanna replace some of that glass and restore some of its strength. When you put a bit of glass in here, it’ll definitely stick to
this one and the next one will stick on and
everything else like that. But it can’t butt join. Those fibers are broken and it’s all over. So the rationale here because
you can’t butt join them it’s better to have a big bit of glass with basically mechanical
adhesion through all of this. But then each bit of glass
that you put in later on with resin over the
top actually is bonding into that repair. So that’ll give you the most surface area in one whole bit of strong
glass sticking to the repair. And then the other ones add
to the strength so then they bring it up to the surface. And that’s what we’ve gone and done. Before you kick off, you really
wanna get yourself prepared. So you wanna have your
glass already cut to size so you can just grab it and go. And your tools all well at hand. And make sure you’re comfortable. We’re working now so we’re in the shade. I’m sitting down. I’ve got this here. I’ve made myself a little
work table and everything’s sort of within easy reach. Don’t worry it’ll still turn
into a little bit of chaos. – I’ve also got metho. – Yep, if you’re using epoxy
resin, then methylated spirits is good for on-the-go cleaning up. – And a rag. – And a rag. And of course, as always,
Pascale is right beside me. So what we’re gonna do is
just build up that glass. You need to make sure as
you put it on that the resin is fully flooding the glass
and you try and get rid of any air pockets or holes. And you’ll know that because
the glass goes invisible. Alright? When I say glass I mean it’s fiberglass. And it is glass, alright? It’s long, drawn-out
glass fibers all woven together in a fabric. Or thrown together like
this chopped strand is. Now when Pascale was preparing all this, she was cutting the woven mat. But it’s better to tear
this stuff, alright? The chopped strand. If you cut it, what you’ll end up having is lots of strands and, I
suppose you can if you want but I find it’s easier
just to tear it to shape. Alright, so make sure there’s
plenty of cover there. Like I said, some people
go smallest to largest. We’re of the largest to
smallest school of thought. If it’s a bit oversized, that’s okay. If you don’t paint them
with resin, you’ll still be able to just cut them away later on. So don’t get too anal-retentive about getting it exactly right.
(chuckles) So we can see here, as I’m pushing it in, and it’s being flooded with resin, the glass is just disappearing seemingly. You can see through it
really well and that is what we’re chasing. Alright, so that’s how, that’s
the first sort of layer done. So we’re alternating. We’re alternating woven matting with this chopped strand matting. Chopped strand, because it’s
got all these strands going in every different direction, has strength in every different direction. Whereas this woven matting
goes that way and that way. So by interspersing them, by just sort of putting them through here. We need another little bit.
– Yes we do. – Oh look I’ve got another
little bit just for there. When we were glassing
with our friend David up in Cairns, he recommended
when you’re mixing up the resin you mix up the same weight
of resin as the fiberglass that you’re using. So these weigh in and about 20 grams, but I actually made up
about 30 grams of resin because I know that we’re gonna
flood it out pretty heavily. – An alternative approach
is to flood each layer of glass on a tray before
placing it on the repair. (mellow music) It’s important to roll out
each layer with a consolidator to ensure the resin is flooded
through each layer of glass. (mellow music) – What else have we got Pascale? We got the final?
– Final layer. – The final mat layer. So the final layer is the
same size as the original one and it’s just to cover it all. And this will give it a
relatively smooth finish. (mellow music) – Methylated spirits
is an effective cleaner when using epoxy resin, although some people
also use white vinegar. (mellow music) The last step was to tape
in place a sheet of peel ply and make sure it was full wet-through, just like the fiberglass. (mellow music) As well as giving a smooth finish, the peel ply carries away
any surface contamination and amine bloom that may
affect subsequent coating. With the first repair
done, there were 10 or so more large holes to
repair in the same manner. (pop music) – Ooh, satisfying.
– Mm hm. – Here you go. – Hey. Yeah. (knocking) Look at that. (singing) (chuckles) (tapping) – Hoo hoo.
– Solid. – Really solid. Cured fiberglass is extremely
irritating and itchy. So I thought I might
dress up for this job. (swing music) Next step is to apply fairing mix. In this case, Q cells. They can be sanded flat the next day. (folk music) – After all the sanding, we
washed as much of the hull as we could to eliminate dust that may affect the
paint in the next stage. (folk music) (water spraying) – Alright, we’ve gone and
dropped about 500 bucks on paint, which is pretty good. I mean it might sound like a fair bit if you don’t have a boat. But if you do already have a yacht, you go $500, that’s incredible. That’s our antifoul and we’re
doing our topside as well. Not the deck, just the topsides. So we’re going with Jotun and I reckon that they do a
really good application guide. And the chandlery was good
enough to print these out for us. So, we’re gonna just prime
up with Jotacote 605. And we were just having a bit of a look at the
product description. But they also have
surface preparation here. And that’s valuable information. If you’re gonna be doing some painting, try and get hold of these guides. They’ve got lots of good
information that’ll tell you how many liters gives you
how many square meters. So, for our boat, we know that
it’s roughly 10 meters long and the white part, the topside,
is roughly one meter high. So that’s 10 square meters a side. So we’ve got enough paint. (laughs) Here’s the main thing, we
don’t have to finish halfway through and go, ah the store’s not open. We don’t have enough paint. Because we’ve worked it out. I gave it to Pascale, ’cause
she’s good with numbers. So, what? That’s right isn’t it? – I guess.
– Now it tells you standards of cleanliness
and things like that. And it also, in the surface preparation. Now we were using acetone,
which is a type of thinner to just clean out the
places where we’re epoxying. Well it says here that what
you really want to clean this with is an alkaline product. That sounds a lot like TSP to me. Pascale, what do you think?
– Yep. – So trisodium phosphate is the cleaner that we have onboard. We bought about five bucks worth. (chuckles) And it’s like
a massive container. And it’s great on mold. It’s great as a cleaner. And now it turns out, that it’s
great for your surface prep for your painting. So that’s what we’re gonna do. We’re gonna go on. We’re gonna put Jodacote 605 and then we’re gonna top
that with hardtop ultra. It’s a two-part acrylic polyurethane. And with our antifoul people have asked us what we’re gonna go with and
we’re going with Seaguardian. So it’s,
– Ablative. – It’s ablative. It’s cuprous, okay? It has copper in it. It’s based on ion exchange technology. I don’t know what that is. It sounds like marketing
people getting in on there. But the important thing is
we’ve used Seaguardian before. So with this one we can just
go ahead, prepare the surface so it’s nice and smooth. And Jotun themselves say you
can just go straight on there, as long as you’ve got Seaguardian before. So, that’s pretty good. – So today’s the day we start painting. Troy is currently mixing
the primer together. So he’s put the two components together and he’s mixing it. And we have taped up the hull. And sanded and cleaned it yesterday. So, it’s time to paint. (mellow music) The technique we were
using was to roll and tip, where a paint roller gives great coverage and then very light strokes
with a good quality brush leave a fair, smooth finish. (mellow music) – Roll and tip painting
is a great technique and experienced operators,
which is not us, can get a great result. And it’ll rival spray application. We’ve included a link in the
description to this video to Don Casey’s book, This Old Boat. In it, he covers this
and a lot of other great boat restoration skills. Don’t put the brush and go. You’ve got to be moving
when the brush strikes. (mellow music) – All of the hull repairs
also got a coat of primer to help the antifoul bond effectively. (mellow music) So, this morning we’re
painting the topside with… – It’s a two pack polyurethane. – A two pack polyurethane. – So we put the primer coat on and we gave it a light sanding. So now, I’m just gonna wash it down with methylated spirits to get
rid of any last bit of dust. – Yep.
– It’s had a freshwater clean and another degrease. So now just the metho. Just any last bit of loose dust. (mellow music) (drill whirs) Are you ready?
– Third and final coat. – That’s it, we’re gonna– – This is the big one. – We’ll brush and tip this one. So, should be good. – The sprint begins. (mellow music) – We’ve got a nice, shiny
satin finish to this. So it sort of hides the
evils in a 50 year-old boat a little bit while still
looking kind of fancy. (mellow music) Oi,
(laughs) that’s why we wear glasses. (laughter) (mellow music) – Thank you for tuning
in to this week’s episode of Free Range Sailing. If you enjoyed the video,
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99 thoughts on “Osmosis Blister Repair and Hand Painting Our Hull (Roll and Tip Method) – Free Range Sailing Ep 69

  1. Hi guys, I'm just curious as to why I can't watch this particular episode in my downloads library. Your other episodes can be downloaded to watch when I'm away from my home router, but this one is blocked for some un-announced reason. I can't always be near my router/wifi link, and like to watch my favourite channels off-line.

  2. She's coming together just fine… Good job to you both! I love the in depth explanation of everything you guys do to your boat =)

  3. Is this the first time you have discovered blisters in your hull?What a great job you have done in repair and painting!

  4. Every video from you is like a visit with dear friends, relaxing, informative, rejuvenating. Just a total pleasure! And I always learn something! thanks!!

  5. I stupidly put my hand up to help out doing this same job on a 48 foot Beneteau. Lot of work doing it by hand like that, and you sure sleep well after each day.

  6. you just thumbs upped the brand of paint we rejected from our yacht club reasons being if you don't follow the instructions to the tee it can fail when all we really want is a paint you can slap on and not worry that it will peel off if its too hot or too cold.
    so I hope you dont have problems because I know people who have,and I have jotun on my deck that blasted off with a gernie wash

  7. Another great instructional video. You both make everything doable. (Side note: wonderful music choices this week.) Shot of finished job looks great!

  8. I know this advise is a bit late as you two are probably half way down the Queensland Coast by now but being a painter for over 35 yrs I just had to say something and I hope this is not taken the wrong way but you should always tip off paint back into the section that was previously rolled out. This will give you a even coat and stop the appearance of stop/start brush marks in the surface of the paint. Love your Vids. and I hope you guys are anchored somewhere safe and sound with this late season Cyclone off the Queensland Coast wiping up some big seas at present.

  9. We are fitting a bow thruster in the next few week's and the way you guys showed the fibreglassing techniques has helped us massively, so thank you very much for sharing ๐Ÿ‘Œ๐Ÿผ

  10. Nice job again! Thanks for the great explanation of the layering technique that bonds the sides of the glass fiber rather than the ends. This easily justifies the larger to small layers and your the first Iโ€™ve seen to add the full size piece of glass cloth over the top. Thank you Troy – you are a good teacher.

  11. This is a heads up. I have been fully subscribed and I have not been getting notifications for months of your video releases. I know other channels are having the same problem.

  12. Unfamiliar with the final material you applied on the repairs. I wonder if it's a translation issue from Aussie to American? God knows it took me a bit to figure out what metholated spirits were here. My supplier just started at me when I asked him. Guessing your primer does duty as what is called barrier coat here? To aid in preventing more blisters?

  13. As always, informative, educational and a delightful way to spend 19:36 of my life. One observation/ comment though. I've long been told never to paint in direct sunlight which is obviously what you are doing on several occasions. Is that advice an old wives tale or does it make a difference?

  14. Troy is a regular Pablo Picasso and I'm looking forward to seeing Pascale in the galley cooking up her wonderful dishes soon.

  15. Please stop saying โ€œOKโ€, I watch a lot of your videos and there great. But โ€œokโ€ is doing my head in lol

  16. Osmotic blistering on the exterior of a sea boat hull is NOT a minor repair. It is even worse when it is on the interior and the worst is obviously inner and outer. It is a pre cursor to needing a new hull.

  17. Looking Fantastic. Nothing beats a beautiful white finishโ€ผ๏ธ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ GOOD LUCK GUYS, great team. Vinny ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ

  18. Learning to do glass work before you tube was big it was fun plus we where doing it on rc race boats but our favorite were the 2 kevlar hulls and the one carbon fiber we had

  19. ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘

  20. Nice!

    I helped a guy paint a Catalina 30 with Interlux Perfection. The actual painting was minor compared to the prep. It was hundreds of hours of labor. But it turned out fabulously.


  21. Worth noting that emulsion-bound CSM is not strictly compatible with epoxy as it needs styrene to melt the binders and whet out completely (if you're tabbing or o/wise conforming this can become fun).. but I've never had much success in finding powder-bound <–now noticed the other comment thread .. Did you consider a barrier-coat under your new antifoul?
    P.S. heads-up, the first ep of BBC's 'Coast – NZ' aired on SBS last night and is on SBS Ondemand

  22. Great video P&T and you must be pleased and proud of how Mirrool's significant hull work and fresh paint job have come out, well done!

  23. The best part of this video is the picture at the end. The love shows my friend, for the boat and for Pascal. Stay thirsty my friend.

  24. Really good episode. Clear and simple explanation with great visuals too.
    For me, youโ€™ve taken the โ€˜scaryโ€™ out of this kind of restoration. Good onya ๐Ÿ‘

  25. I paint the same way. One thing you didnโ€™t mention is that by using the brush you are effectively applying the paint with more psi( pounds per square inch) than any other method, to include spraying. Do you use latex or nitrile gloves? I prefer nitrile as it doesnโ€™t make your hand sweat. Great how to.

  26. Thanks for the vid as always very enjoyable ,I have a paint job coming up was thinking Inter perfection but may go with Jotun now you have made it look easy as. Did you find it necessary to add thinners ?

  27. Better check how to do these repairs correctly, you should start by putting smaller bits in the middle and then add to the size with each additional layer, all you have done in make a single plug of several layers with limited mechanical and chemical adhesion properties, I wouldn't be trusting this repair, maybe check out the correct way by watching the "Boatworks" channel, then grind out the mess you made and do the job correctly.

  28. Great job guys, Iโ€™ve done two sailboat refits including blister repair,
    I feel your pain,and the bonding with your boat ! Now Iโ€™m sailing the passages to Alaska and loving every second of it , including pushing ice burgs away so I can keep on keeping on !!
    Keep on !!
    Those are some serious big blisters ! I rolled and tipped the coach top, sides and deck areas as well, 99 % prep 1% painting,,
    Is that an Allied Lutters ? Like Dove ?

  29. Chopped strand mat and epoxy are not compatible because of the lack of solvents in epoxy. Csm is normally for use with polyester or vinylester. Yet you don't want to use new polyester on old cured polyester as it will not stick to it.

  30. I always thought roll and tip was just using a roller and brush. I didn't know it was a technique. ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ Thanks for educating me.

  31. I have a soft dodger/Bimini…in a couple years, iโ€™ll replace it with a hard one. The fridge is good, but probably will add an Engel freezer in the aft cabin after hurricane season. My battery bank is 4x 6v golf cart batteries @ 12v house system and a separate 12v starter battery. Itโ€™s got a wind turbine, but Solar is definitely a priority. Iโ€™m loving my meths stove. As a backpacker, Iโ€™ve used tiny alcohol stoves. Now Iโ€™ve even got an oven! Iโ€™m blathering on and on… Thank you both for making a huge job seem do-able! Cheers.

  32. I used jotun 2 pack in my resto and found it difficult to get a smooth surface with it too be honest. On hindsight I probably didn't thin it enough. Its ok but it definitely doesn't rival a spray finish. Tough as nails though!

  33. As Norwegian i found it funny when you said Jotun. Only episode 70 to go, and i have cought up with all Videos. This is a very good Chanel, actualy on of the best.

  34. You've made me a little more enthusiastic about coating. Future me is a bit worried about this coating business. So that's helped take a bit of the stress off him.

  35. Absolutely inspiring, the Captain and First Lady Mate, best of the best! God bless and keep you both safe and healthy, Amen!!!

  36. Your tipping the wrong way…wet edge back to where you have already painted…not towards the wet edge.

    Your blister work on the other hand…was spot on! Nice work.

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