Performance Engine Coatings At Home | RM250 Rebuild 9


hey guys good to see you all again I’ve
got a really really good video coming for you all the day sorry haven’t be
able to pick up the camera lately and film for you guys I’ve just had a lot
going on with Pryme it’s taking off like
wildfire thank you to you guys I also had treatment lately so I’ve been
recovering from that and on top of that I’ve had a lot of planning to do for my
wedding coming up this October but why don’t we jump in today’s video and I’ll
show you what I got going on so we’re going to be doing some coatings on the
RM250 engine parts here we’re gonna be doing a clear ceramic coat on the engine
cases as well as the flywheel cover clutch cover and then a colored Cerakote
on the power valve covers water pump cover inner clutch cover and some other
random stuff and this is really cool here I have a high temp coating that
reduces friction can be applying that to the exhaust valve parts and that all of
this stuff over here is gonna be zinc plated to bring back that brilliant
shine and protect it from all this corrosion and rust that you see on these
parts already now the first thing we’re gonna tackle here are the engine cases
where they went through clean them up shine them up that would look good
resurface the gasket areas you want to watch the videos on those they are on
the channel so we’re gonna protect the cases with a clear coat just to ensure
that they don’t get corroded which honestly doesn’t really happen that
often not really a too common but it’s something new I want to try and share
the experience with you guys so the product I’ll be using you guessed it
seracote it is a ceramic clear for aluminum so it’s meant to keep that nice
brushed aluminum look and protect it from any type of corrosion so this is an
air here product sprayed on let it cure for 24 hours and you’re good to go it
will not yellow out or haze not gonna ruin that beautiful brushed look that we
all love so let’s see what this stuff is made of the first thing we’re gonna have
to do is clean up the cases make absolutely sure there’s no dirt grime
left on them and then we can get to spraying
so over here I’ve got a bucket of acetone and I drop each case into the
acetone it’s like I’m enough to shift it around
to get it completely soaked so I’m gonna each case soaked for about 30 minutes
you definitely want to throw a lid on top of that or else that acetone will
evaporate pretty quickly now when you pull the part out you want to make sure
you have brand new set of gloves on you don’t dirty up the case shake it off and
then we’re gonna blow it off with the air compressor now there’s a few areas I
want to mask off mostly the areas where the seal sit as well as the gasket
surfaces we’re all taped and plugged and then
we’re going to give the case one last blow off just to make sure there’s no
debris left behind then we’re going to take the case up here and set it up for
spraying now for the product with any seracote air cure product you want to
shake it up really really good there’s always gonna be a little bit of sediment
at the bottom so you want to make sure that’s all mixed in before you spray
once you’ve done mixing it’s ready to go into the gun so we’re using a mini HVLP
with a point eight millimeter tip and as soon as this cap opens you want to make
sure you have a pair of gloves on as well as a good respirator I go pretty
hardcore things I don’t like messing around so I wear a tie Vic suit as well man that clear sprays out really nicely
lays out flat and it looks like it preserves that brush aluminum finish
pretty good so I set the gun at 30 psi and then started in the tighter areas
like inside of here level area some of the tight spots inside of there just
went nice broad strokes and then finish it off in the flatter areas but yeah
looks pretty sweet so I’m gonna set this thing in the corner let it cure for a
full 24 hours meanwhile I’m gonna get started on the other side crank case but
one thing I should mention is when you’re spraying you definitely want to
make sure you have good ventilation I have an exhaust fan here to set up some
sort of fan so that way you’re not breathing this crap in so while I’ve got the cases over there
keyring I’m gonna get to work on the flywheel and clutch cover now these are
made at magnesium and magnesium is notorious for oxidizing or corroding
quickly as you can see there is a pretty big difference between the two covers
here I just brushed the flywheel cover while the clutch cover has been sitting
for a few weeks and you can see how quickly that oxidized it was just
sitting on the shelf in the shop so I’m gonna have to rerun that and then coat
both of these so that way we can keep that sweet brushed finish got both covers looking sweet again time
to do some coatings so I’m going to follow the same process as I did with
the cases and I’ll be using the same exact product here seracote MC 5100 this
will really be a good test form since there’s such a flat surface on both
covers we’ll see how flat that seracote lays out alright it’s the next day let’s
take a look at how these coatings turned out so our first look you can see the
brush look is still pretty visible it isn’t quite as deep as it was before but
honestly any type of clear coat is going to lose some depth there but with the
engine covers like I was saying in previous videos anything you put on
these is gonna wear off so eventually this coating is gonna wear through but
it isn’t gonna be quite as visible say if it was black it’s gonna wear through
and be very apparent so it’s kind of picking the lesser of the two evils so I
think these will look really good on the bike and should hold up really well that
MC 5100 is supposed to adhere really good to aluminum now for the cases
really pumped on how these came out you can see that coating laid out really
flat smooth still got that brushed look to it now I wouldn’t do a clear coat on
every single Lumina part I’m not gonna go ahead and do it all in like this we
are I’m at linkage and brakes and all that but for something like cases where
they’re hard to get to you to clean you want some sort of protective coating on
there to keep these things look and sweet next up on the list is all of
these covers and the flywheel so I’ll be doing all the covers in a oven Keir
tungsten color and then I’ll be doing the flywheel this thing is just ground
down to bare steel don’t want it to rust be doing that with an air cure graphite
black step one is to blast all these parts with a 100 grit aluminum oxide
media and then drop them in acetone for 30 minutes to soak with everything blasted and soaked I’m
gonna have to mask off a few things before I drop them into the oven for a
pre e so in a mask off the water-pump gasket surface as well as a clutch cover
plug some of these holes mask off the water pump on the backside as well as
these three covers these other covers don’t really matter a whole lot and as
far as the flywheel one thing I didn’t mention is you don’t want to blast
inside of the flywheel it’ll mess up those magnets there and you also don’t
want to run these through the oven there’s a glue that holds the magnets in
and potentially that could soften up in the oven all right we’re all masked off
and plugged up now keep in mind as soon as you pull these parts out of the
acetone bath you won’t throw a fresh pair of gloves on to keep things clean
and then when you’re finished off masking you want to do a little relief
cut so that way the tape doesn’t shrivel up and peel off the edge now the next
step is to throw these parts in the oven at 300 degrees for an hour and the
purpose of this is to burn off any remaining dirt grease or whatever might
be on the surface now while those parts are in the oven I’m gonna get the
seracote ready to spray so like I said I’m using and each 237 tungsten color
this is an oven cure so you got to mix it with some catalyst here so I’m gonna
mix it at a 12 to one ratio with the catalyst so for this project I should
need about 36 ounces so I’m gonna do 36 ounces of seracote and 3 ounces of the
catalyst here in the beaker all right all right we are all ready to
spray so we’re gonna shoot at 30 psi we’re gonna attack the tighter areas
first then move to the more open areas trying to use nice broad strokes across
the part and we’re going to do two coats in total man I just love this stuff it sprays out
so smooth awesome color really consistent finish there so after
spraying you want to let it sit for about 15 minutes before pop it in the
oven for another hour well that stuff is baking I’m going to get after it with
the flywheel so I’ve got the magnets masked off inside you don’t want to get
seracote on those so I’ll be shooting this with some c 102 graphite black this
is an Eric here you got to shake it up really really well there’s gonna be some
particles on the bottom that always need to be mixed in so definitely take your
time shaking this stuff up and after that just pour it straight into the gun
and you are ready to shoot this stuff is looking sick guys absolutely love that
color so as soon as the parts cooled down we can handle it peel off the tape
and give you guys a little closer look now for the flywheel it’s got a nice
matte or flat black finish to it looking good now for the Eric here it takes
about five days to fully cure now at that point we can bolt it up man these
came out so freakin clean really pumped on that color and actually went through
and resented these gasket services once again over on the sanding glass over
here and one thing I take back from yesterday’s video is I said to sand
those before you do any type of coating honestly it’s better to sand it
afterwards that way after sandblasting you can make sure all that’s perfectly
flat and if you get any overspray on the gasket services you can sand that off
too so let’s go ahead and see how some of this stuff looks on the cover water
pump covers the same color now the clutch cover is the clear coated brushed
let’s see how this looks on here goes like that prick man that is so dang
clean I’m loving it what do you guys think I think that’s pretty freakin epic
now one thing I wish I would have done differently on the clutch cover if you
really look close you can see I’m gonna fill it in focus there’s a little bit of
texture there and I should have sprayed it with the
cover flat like that actually sprayed it with it up like this and that kind of
didn’t smooth out the best of my mistake there if you are doing the MC 50-100 I
would spray it with the cover flat especially with something with a large
surface area like this one so anyways all this stuff is ready to go
looking good so let’s move on to the next batch of parts
alright guys a little halftime break got something cool to share with you all so
for those of you who have been buying these wheels these are the cleaning
wheels that go on a bench grinder or buffing machine like those over there I
found a cool way to reuse them once they wear out so you can cut them up into
little circles like a little cleaning wheel and mount them on these adapters
so I’ve got an eighth inch and a quarter inch the eighth inch one is for a dremel
and the quarter inch one bigger one is for an air die grinder or you could use
it on a drill as well so how these work you basically just cut them out when you
buy one of the adapters you get this little template you just cut out the
template put it on here trace it out cut it out poke a little hole in the middle
and mount it up on the adapter and you can get cleaning works really good for
getting in those tight spots for smaller parts and the possibilities are pretty
endless with these so I’ll give you a little preview of how they worked I’m
gonna build a little two inch wheel here so let’s cut out your template alright
you got a cut out there over on wheel take a screwdriver or something sharp
poke it through the middle poke it through the wheel there now we’re gonna
take a marker trace around the template there and just cut it out then we’re going to take our adaptor put
one washer on either side of the wheel poke it through that little hole in the
center thread the adapter on cinch down and then we can pop it into the dremel
check this out this is pretty frickin sweet holy shit guys make sure you
tighten down your dremel attachments that could have been pretty bad got an
old shifter here let’s see what we can do with it as always whenever we use any
sort of grinder or sander you want to wear some eye protection and a
respirator jeez as that is insane just a couple
passes with the wheel and you got some fine-looking aluminum right there now
we’ve got the wheel mounted up on a die grinder and we should have pretty much
the same effect if not even better now that is some pretty freakin sweet
look alumina as wills work awesome so I will have the adapters up on the
website prayin XCOM I’ll also drop a link down below one more thing before we
get back to work on the RM I still have more of these shirts that I did a
giveaway on a couple weeks ago so these are the ones that ordered in but the
neck tags got messed up so we have long sleeve a short sleeve we do have extra
small/small no mediums on the short sleeve a large no XL and then a two XL
and pretty much the same on the long sleeves if I don’t have your size I will
throw in one of these other shirts here let’s go ahead and take a look at them
over here so we have a gray long-sleeve black short sleeve these things fit
really good super comfortable but the neck tags were sewn in at the wrong spot
it wasn’t too pumped on them so I don’t really like sound things that aren’t a
hundred percent something I’m not 100% stoked on so I will be giving these away
now when you’re on prime you head over the shopping cart got your stuff in here
scroll down a little bit and you’ll want to hit this special instructions for
seller box punch in your shirt size so you got a large and that’s all you got
to do so you guys have until March 3rd to submit your order make sure you put
your shirt size in there and I will hook you guys that all right let’s get back
to work on the RM oh and about that hole yep I punched that I got pissed in my
printer one time now what we have here are all the exhaust valve parts these
are all the pieces that go in the cylinder and control the flow the
exhaust coming out the engine now you can see some of the coatings are
starting to wear away these are factory coatings and so I figured you know what
might as well do it right recoat these parts and I can do a few of
the other parts at the same time that weren’t coded from the factory just to
make them work a little better so the coating I’ll be using is another set of
coat product hard to resist they make so many good things but this is a P 109
micro slip coating so essentially what it is it’s an oil shedding coating or at
sheds oil so we’re not gonna have all that carbon buildup like we had before
when I started with these parts and it also reduces the amount
friction so all these parts are working together inside the engine you know
they’re twisting sliding grinding on each other and if we can reduce the
amount of friction that is gonna help them work that much better and another
thing about this coating to it is a high temp coating so it can withstand up to
1,200 degrees so start with prep we’re gonna sandblast them and just basically
follow the same process as we did with the other coatings so when you’re
blasting you want to make sure you don’t spend too much time each part these are
pretty tight tolerance parts and you don’t want to throw them out of whack so
now we’re ready for the next step and that is soaking them in acetone so I’ve
got the majorities parts hung up on the rack ready for the oven now a few of the
parts are pretty tough to hang up there’s not really any holes anywhere to
secure the wire to and what I ended up doing was twisting some grip wire around
the posts that should work pretty good so these parts are ready to drop in the
oven at 300 degrees for an hour all right we are ready to shoot some
seracote so I’m gonna come over here to the micro slick shake it up really well
I like to flip it upside down when I’m shaking it get all those solids at the
bottom mixed in that’s very important or else you’ll have a failed coating so
I’ll shake it up for about three minutes pour it straight into the HVLP no
catalyst required and grab a respirator throw it on and get spring so we’re only
gonna do one coat on these now one coat is equivalent to less than half a foul
of thickness so it’s extremely thin we have some tight tolerances work with
here so we’re gonna keep the coating pretty thin also a little tip for you
guys on your respirator filters mark the date that you install them and if you
use them quite a bit change them out once a month and that’ll keep them nice
and fresh and keep your lungs in good shape this stuff seemed to spray out pretty
good so now I’m gonna toss it in the oven and let her bake at 300 for a full
hour well folks the micro slick coatings I’ll
finish it up looks pretty good sprayed out nicely let’s go ahead and test fit
some of these parts make sure all the clearances are good looks like that fits
good the shaft goes through this piece here that still fits really good and as
far as the valve and the cylinder let’s go ahead and check that out
oh yeah and feel a difference there it feels like it slides pretty smoothly
what else we got here these little valves go on the cylinder those ones fit
nice and tight in there not any resistance so yeah everything fits great
so at this point we are all finished up with the coatings so throughout this
video we used a bunch of different stuff from seracote we had the clear for
aluminum on the cases and clutch cover and then we use the tungsten oven clear
on all the other covers that turned out really good love that color and then of
course for the flower we had the AIRC here graphite black and then the micro
slick for the exhaust mount parts so if you guys are interested in trying some
of this out you can buy it directly from seracote their website is sarah cocom i
will also have it linked down below pretty cool stuff
ok so the next project we’re going to tackle is all of the hardware for the
engine as you can see it’s pretty crusty and rusty used and abused and so we are
gonna transform all these bolts into looking like this nut with some zinc
plating so the zinc plating is gonna protect the bolt from any future rust
and corrosion and also give it that sweet shine so let me show you my setup
alright guys welcome to my meth lab I mean my zinc plating setup so this is
the caswell kit use it quite a bit in the past
works really well so it looks like there’s a lot going on here all sorts of
buckets wires power sources all sorts of craziness but once you break it down
it’s actually pretty straightforward let me start from the very beginning we have
a degreaser tank just a crock pot that needs to be let’s see around hundred
fifty degrees Fahrenheit I have a bucket of distilled water and then a bucket of
five percent muriatic acid another bucket of distilled water and then the
actual plating tank so this has a couple things going on it has a heater in there
it needs to be a hundred degrees somewhere around 100 degrees Fahrenheit
it’s got an agitator kind of like a pump set up in the back the plating bars one
on either side the tank bar where the parts hang from and we have a power
source we have a positive a negative positive goes to the tank bars negative
goes to the hanging bar and then over here we have another bucket distilled
water to wash the parts in when we’re all finished up so to break this whole
process down in the simplest of terms basically what we’re doing here is
getting the part ready to plate by degreasing it using an acid bath then we
drop it into the tank and in here we’re using the power source to attract
particles of zinc onto the bolt these plates are made of zinc so that is how
you get the protective plating on the part it’s actually particles of zinc
obviously there’s a lot more going on than just that but that’s basically the
gist of it now if you guys would like more info on this whole setup last year
I made a pretty in-depth video it’s like 45 minutes long on zinc plating and I
will link that video down below now if you’re gonna be plating use bolts like I
am you want to make sure they’re not cracked or bent before you start so to
test how they are straight I just roll it on a table
make sure it roll smooth that one’s good now I saw this one is bent before I’ll
show you what it looks like when it’s bent just kind of doesn’t really roll
very good on the table so we’ll need to replace that one I’m not going to
frickin bend it back or anything and then when I’m cleaning up the bolts I
like to look for rounded off heads and or damaged threads now a little safety
precaution here whenever you’re working in or around the plate intake wear a
pair of gloves wear respirator and besides that the process is actually
pretty safe now I know some of you are thinking why wouldn’t you just go buy
new hardware isn’t that easier so some of this stuff can be replaced pretty
easily like these smaller bolts are pretty standard you can just buy them
anywhere now some of these are a little harder to get like the studs either
they’re discontinued or they’re pretty expensive your place five bucks apiece
that adds up pretty quick there’s some more specialty bolts here
like some like that so that kind of stuff I’ll replate and the smaller stuff
the more common stuff let’s go into a bolt kit here got a czesc bolt kit and
just find a replacement there but for specialty things like spindle shafts
weird bullets this is where the plating tank really comes in handy
all right enough gibberish I think these tanks should be warm enough to start so
let’s get to plating so we’ve got a crusty batch of bolts here these are for
the crank case so the first step is that take them over to the buffing machine
clean them up with the cleaning wheel I’ll get all the rust off shine them up
a little bit so basically the shinier you can get the bolt before hand before
plating the better the outcome will be now the bolts look pretty freakin sweet
but of course if we don’t do anything to them they are just going to rust again
and that’s where the zinc plating comes into play so now we’re going to hang
them with some copper wire and drop them into the degreaser tank so I’ve got
about half the bolts tied up here it’s always easier to go in smaller batches
so I’m going to drop these bolts into the degreaser tank I’ll let them soak
for probably 10 minutes there all right we are ready to start plating so I’m
going to pull my first batch dip it in the first bucket of distilled water
swirl it around and then go into the muriatic acid bath scroll that around
for two to three seconds let it fit up a little bit and then into the next
distilled water bath and into the plating tank we go so we’re gonna
suspend the parts in the solution here make sure they don’t touch the bottom
you want to make sure they are fully immersed as well now this is where it
gets interesting and we actually start plating so on the power supply I’ve got
the output button off and I turn that on I’m gonna have the amps around one and
then I’m gonna slowly crank it up not going the wrong way
crank it up until we start to see some bubbles coming up off of the bolts as
you can see they’re starting to turn black which means the amps aren’t high
enough let’s crank it up a little higher this should be on this one it should be
around to a little over two it all depends on the surface area of the batch
here running to keep going up higher and higher
it’s been a while since I’ve been plating gonna have to get back in the
flow of things keep watching that tank look for a little bit of fizzing so I
ended up taking a few bolts off of the wire here like I was saying it’s a
little easier to just have a smaller batch so right now I am at 1.9 amps and
see there’s a little bit of fizzing going on so we’re just about right I
might need to turn it up just a tad check it again so you can see those
bolts are starting to turn a little more shiny compared to black that means the
plating process has taken place so I’m gonna leave it for about five minutes I
might turn on the agitator here and in five minutes we should have some pretty
shiny bolts all right five minutes is up stop the agitator turn off the power
let’s check these things out holy balls that looks good Rick I love zinc plating
so I’m gonna pull them out of the tank shake them off drop them in the water
kind of swish them around a little bit and then I’m gonna blow them off with an
air compressor after a little blow I’m gonna bring them over to the drying rack
let those things hang for a few hours now you don’t want to touch them right
after you’re done plating it’ll leave fingerprints so let them dry but damn
let’s spend a second and just admire how frickin clean those are all right I
think we’re ready for the next batch we’ve got another batch down sick so
this is the difference between a commercially played a bolt on the right
and a bolt I just played it with the casval kit a pretty big difference next
up we have the studs for the cylinder and cylinder head these things are
pretty crusty so let’s see what we can do with them so a few of these studs are
extremely rusty and pitted and at this point when it’s that bad really not
worth replaying you know if this thing is weak because of all the rust and
snaps off in the case I am dead meat so I’m gonna replace the really pitted
studs and the rest of these I should be able to plate just fine all right here’s
what we came up with for the cylinder studs turned out pretty sweet although
the badly pitted one just looks terrible I’m not gonna use that but the rest of
these all look pretty good besides a little bit of blackening on the threads
that is due to using too heavy of a wire to hang them so I would recommend using
a 20 gauge wire that seems to be the ticket probably a good idea to plate the
kickstart shaft and shift Jeff as well these are both just bare steel right now
and would rust over time I’m gonna have to take apart the shift shaft a little
bit but let’s get these things shined up man these look incredible really hyped
on how they came out I tell you what once you get that plating kit down in
you can really fly through the parts and get some sweet results too for all these
tiny bolts I’m gonna have to bead blast the heads to get inside of there and
then shine them up on the buffer man I got nothing else to say well that
is gonna be it for zinc plating alright I know this video is probably running a
little long so I’m gonna cap it off right here but I had a ton of fun this
is probably one of my favorite videos I just love doing this kind of stuff hope
you guys enjoy it too if you did share it with someone that you think would
enjoy it or learn a thing or two alright I’ll see you around on the
channel keep a prime

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